Do you prefer bouldering or routes? For me it’s routes. No
doubt about it though they are more effort, more mentally tiring and more
stressful. So I went to the dark side.
First I had a trip up to the Peak. I spent two evenings
sneaked in after team training. For these I just climbed with my brother and we
went around working out the problems the rocks threw at us. I climbed well with
the feeling of the grit under my fingers like having sand on my skin from the
beach. I worked the Terrace, a classic 7C. With clinical precision and absolute
control like taking a penalty in the World Cup I climbed my way up it. I then
took it easy and supported my brother as the sun dropped behind the hills. We
both walked away feeling very happy with how it all went. From the rugged
beauty of the Moor the next evening we went to the tranquil setting of
Water-Cum-Jolly. The water was still like the muggy calm before the thunder
roles in. With this storm came Tsunami 8A. It’s brutal, basic and brilliant. I
was so close each time tickling the crescent shaped crimp! I came away as a
gambler putting everything on red and it coming up black.
Next on the list was North Wales. The Pass was dank, drizzle
washed over the car windscreen and fell to the floor with my hopes. One boulder
was sure to by dry, well at least the bottom of it was; Jerry’s Roof. I had the
ideal bouldering conditions wet, one boulder pad, no spotters, no beta things
were looking splendid. Jerry’s Roof and Bus Stop weren’t too bad so I finished
those quick. I decided to try Diesel Power. Not going to lie, I wasn’t very
close to this. This didn’t stop me loving it though, I was stretched out on a
roof trying hard to keep my feet on and eventually taking a swooping swing and
landing with my bum on the mat. Doesn’t get much better! After Ed Gow-Smith and
James Squire showed up so we climbed on the beautiful slopes of Snowdon. You
know that nervous energy? That energy you get when you know everything is in
place to climb something truly at your limit. Well that’s what I was swamped by
when I stuck the shoulder shearing move on Stone Temple Pilots 8A. The cave felt like being swallowed up into
the mountain, it was dark but the chalk on the holds caught the smatterings of
light and reflected it showing an interstellar path of holds out of Snowdon. I
would never have done it though if it wasn’t for great beta and a bit of
pressure to keep the ‘send train’ going as James topped it just before me. To
end the day we headed to wavelength area and went right to the top. No noise
reached us it was the perfect end with chilled out climbing at it's best.
More limestone was calling. I visited Parisella’s Cave. It’s
very steep. I set my pad up to climb Rock Atrocity 7C and found myself quickly
coughing up the cloud of dust I landed in. I fought my way up just before my
arms gave in. Another venue I visited was The Gop. This was a very short, very
steep cave in the Welsh hills. One problem there stood out for me, Smoke a
Bloke 7B+. The problem was one move long and what a move it was! Just pull on
and jump for a pocket off two small crimps.
Next up was a quick attack of Peak limestone. I felt like I
was in a rhythm now and hit crags like Blackwell Dale, Tideswell Dale and Raven
Tor in the evenings. Tideswell was a special favourite situated in the most picturesque
peak valley. You climbed off a meadow of grass on high clean limestone. I love
the crimpy style and Pump up the Power 7C+ stood out for me as it’s such a
classic.
I haven’t talked about closer to home. Hartland was the
place where all my effort was focused and on one problem: Supercede 8A.
Situated on a rocky beach, with the waves crashing like a natural rhythm to climb
to, I’d say it’s one of the best places to have a project. I went down with the
Mabons to try it. I spend about 4 sessions on it overall and that day
everything was perfect. For me that was the hardest bloc I’ve ever climbed!
Just next to it was Northern Exposure, a high, unrepeated problem which was
given 7a+ but multiple strong climbers had failed to get the repeat. I tried it
with a large crew and we had loads of pads. The atmosphere was chilled out and
everyone was enjoying the evening. We pushed each other on to try to get the
second ascent. The move that was stopping me was a desperate twist on a tiny edge
in the crack. The first time I properly commited, I did the twist and slapped a
sloper next to the crack. Now it was to the finishing jug, I latched it but
felt my feet cutloose. In slow motion I twisted and my right hand ripped
sending me into a sideways helicopter. My spotters divided out the way to avoid
getting landed on. My side hit the pad and I watched my momentum take my face
towards a rock, I stuck out my hand. Pain. My wrist felt like it had been bent
back 180 degrees. I wasn’t able to climb for a month and that brought an end to
my bouldering phase.
https://vimeo.com/129292524 Bouldering from North Waleshttps://vimeo.com/132603500 Bouldering in the Peak and Hartland
