A Muerte

Flash Over

Wow Spain is defiantly the best place in the world for sport climbing, in my opinion, I'm not sure what could top it. This year just like last year we headed out in our Easter holidays after a winter of intensive training. I was really excited and spent hours memorising all the information in the guide books and researching loads of climbs I wanted to do on 8a.nu. Their was one main goal though Rollito Sharma Extension 8c, I'd trained towards this route and this fed my motivation to get stronger.

Flash Over

So we travelled out and my brother and I were like little kids in a candy shop! Maybe a bit too enthusiastic going to Santa Linya straight away, we met Anak Verhoven there who we have competed with and first met at Saint Leger, once again a marvel of the climbing network! Bit over keen we warmed up and got straight on the 8c, yeah surprise we got really shut down. I also worked an 8b called Niu de Chut which I got all the moves on and thought it was soft.

So day two we started, got up early and headed to Terradets, the sterotype of a sport cliff with 30m endurance tests all the way along the wall. Turned out I was feeling fit and I fired off Golpe de Gas 8b second go and as I was getting tired screamed and fought my way up Non Stop 8b. This was an amazing day and was when I realised that I could push it this trip.


Climbing at El Falco

The next day brought me back to earth as I dropped a 7a warming up. Next I tried an 8a+ which I backed off and I wasn't feeling that good. I was worried maybe I had burnt out already, but things started to get better and I onsighted a 7c which I really enjoyed and was a bit of a hidden gem. We then moved to a crag called Camarsa which was one of the oldest crags in that area, some of the climbing was bit too roadside for my liking but we did some routes their before heading to sector La Font which held the amazing orange wall of Font Picant 8a. I decided to go for the onsight not really expecting much, the moves through the crux flowed really well and I found myself above it. I dug deep and for the first time was positively talking myself through the top section in my head and it worked my first 8a onsight, although gutted for Luke who dropped the last hard move on the flash.

  After a rest day it was time to try to have a proper redpoint go at Rollito Sharma, it wasn't to be though and I couldn't get through the desperate crux on the 8b+ section which was a bit rubbish but felt better when I saw some Belgian wad falling there as well. That day I finished of Nuit de Chut extension 8b which turned out to be hard and I almost dropped clipping the chains that would have been a heart breaker! I finished the day with an 8a and tried an 8a+. The Austrian Youth team showed up which was fun because I knew most of them and they are always a good laugh, although we did feel a bit outnumbered. Final day in Santa Linya and I tried the 8a+ again but couldn't do maybe next time! Gaz Parry turned up which was cool because he was like a beta god and with his and Anaks help I sent Koala 8b second go. Then I did an 8a and two 7c+ to finish off but really I know I'm not finished and will hopefully be returning there soon to finish off Rollito Sharma!

Non Stop 8b

No rest and we went straight to meet 'the Northern Lot' to climb in Suirana and Margalef. Previously I didn't have the best experience with Suirana finding it too vertical and fingery but this time it blew me away. Classics like La Cara que no miente 8a+ and Ramadan 8b went on the first day. Good job to Alex also sending them. Another good send that day was getting a lift offered from the first guy I tried to hitch! The following day we went to the same place and I tried Kale Borroka 8b+. Let me describe it a 38m orange wall at an outrageous angle for most of its length split by one crack system covered in chalk. It was a line and I didn't find it that bad. On my first redpoint I fell on the top crux. Michaela Tracy told us the day before that the 8a+ next to Ramadan was actually harder so always keen for a sandbag set off to try it. Alex was getting bored by the time I'd figured out all the moves and they were hard, I don't think I'll ever crimp so hard. I got on a redpoint and was fresh through it but just lost crimp strength towards the end and ended up holding a hideous deadpoint to a mono. Hardest move I've ever done? Felt like it! Of course I made it look harder than it was and Alex went to cruise it.



Non stop

Next day was the first day in Margalef and there was one route I wanted to do, Flash Over 8b+. I just wasn't focused that day and fluffed it too many times and eventually ran out of energy, I'd failed. I wasn't down for long though because watching Billy send Dando Brea 8a was pretty inspirational good effort!

The rest day was full of sun tanning and swimming although I'm not sure swimming across the lake at Margalef was the greatest idea maybe a bit reckless. After this I was refreshed for a siege on Kale Borroka. Two other people where trying it so there was a good buzz and I went up on my first attempt and got to the final crux again but couldn't stick it. One of the guys suggested a change of foot beta at the top and I decided I'd use this. I sent it next go and it was weird I wasn't that over the moon to send it but I just felt fulfilled because I'd climbed it perfectly and to be honest it didn't feel hard. I think I'm not going to get that very often it was really special.

Last day with the Northern lot was at El Falco Arboli and I spent it climbing low 7's and just really enjoyed it. The last night was interesting and just to say the following morning I wasn't feeling my best but it was my last chance on Flash Over 8b+. I only did one warm up and decided to get straight on it. Without expectation I climbed, I felt crap but kept going move after move. At the top I was boxed but clipped the chains in a daze. That was unexpected. Luke sent El Fustigador 8a+ and made it look easy so a good day all around. Luke and I finished on a ledge at Suirana climbing beautiful routes and finished just as the rain came in. Wow, I have to say it was fun.

Thanks everyone that made it an amazing trip, thanks to Mike for getting me in shape and thanks to Dewerstone for the support!



The crew!

Building it all up

Chimes of Freedom 8a+

Although not going on any trips for this first part of the year I've been super busy, with basically training. I'm conscience of the standard rising all around me in competitions and I feel like I'm at the age that I really start pushing myself for example, I've started fingerboarding regularly, which paid off this week were I sent Tuppence Ha'penny 8b+ and managed to do the uber-crimpy start of Fisherman's Tail another instance was sending Chimes Of Freedom 8a+ at Raven Tor which was my first hard route on Peak limestone and I hope there will be many more to come!

Zaff Skoczylas 7C

Also when I'm up in Sheffield I get out on the gritsone. It truly is a great rock and I've found it really hard to adjust my typical powerful limestone style to the intricate nature of grit. It was hard and some days I'd just go away feeling really demoralised especially when I ended up making my finger bleed and freezing cold after failing on Electrical Storm 7B, although that is one I'm going to have to get back to. However I had done some really memorable problems for example doing this high arête when Dad wasn't looking!

Training at the Works

Life in a Radioactive Dustbin

I got four days in the couple months and finally in the fourth day at Stanage it all clicked. It was with the GB bouldering team and we where given a Hueco rock rodeo format to try to send as many problems as possible, warming up on pebble arête one of the most beautiful climbs on grit. The business boulder was next and I tried Jerry's Traverse 7C which was a power-endurance traverse done by the famous Jerry Moffat. Sam Whittaker was there to give me beta so that really helped and I soon figured out the easiest sequence, not long later I sent it but had to dig really hard to get it and it felt right at my limit. I then got Green Slap 7A which I couldn't touch last time I tried it. Their was one problem that I wanted to do that day and it was Brad Pitt 7C, I'd tried it last year and got close falling on the final move. This year though one of the holds was damp and everyone was saying it would be impossible! I was psyched though and the main holds where dry so I gave it a shot, first go I got to the last move, that was when I realise it would go. With some great encouragement from the rest of the team I managed to stick it on my fifth go!

Boulder Training at the Works

Brad Pitt

I've also had lots of training days with the various teams. Everyone I've come back refreshed with new motivation and new ideas on how to train. I've met some great people during these and its been really fun training with some of the best climbers in the world. Another reason for going up to Sheffield was the CWIF which was a great competition and team psych( James, Ed, Alexia and myself) where in high spirits!

So its the Easter holidays are here what I've been working towards. I think I've trained well, first with lots of volume now recently getting in lots of hard redpoints and bouldering however I'm still nervous to see if it pays off. Lets hope it does!

Also thanks to Dewerstone Lifestyle for supplying me and Luke with some great clothes.

Over the Moon!

2013 Roundup

This year has been amazing.  It really started in February half term when I went with some friends to El Chorro, an amazing climb destination in the south of Spain. There I climbed my first 8a+ which was a great start. After that I had a trip to Spain in easter where I did my first 8B called La bombi and my second one called Nina Mala.  During term I took a project at Ansteys cove called Tuppence which was a classic 8b, it was a proper project and a finally got it which was great! Next up was basically the time for competitions and I had the Glasgow bouldering open which I finished second and the Ratho European where I finished 11th.


Poema de Roca L2, El chorro

Stavanger



8a in El Chorro

Imst

Canada

Next came the summer holidays were first we went to frankenjura to do some outdoor climbing. It had been amazing the last year and it was no disappointment again. I sent three 8a+ and my favourite being Misery. After that I went to Austria and climbed in the Zillertal and competed in Imst where I finished 12th. Next was back home to compete in the Leeds open where I finished 2nd in the boulder and 1st in the routes which was amazing because it was my first win. The World Championships was next and I travelled to Canada which was the first time I'd been out of the Europe. The trip was amazing and I finished in 13th place with great memories.



Leads Youth Open

 After some down time, it was time for the last to competitions of the season, Stavanger and Laval which were my last two chances to make a final. This came easier than I thought! In Stavanger I qualified in 4th place and finished in 7th overall which was great. In Laval which was my first bouldering European. I was really surprised to qualify in 5th position and after the final retain that position. It was crazy. I had half-term where I went to Saint Leger in France. We met up with the Irish and it was really fun I got another 8b called Abrage Nief. Also sending loads of 8a+s and 8as.



Laval

BLCCs

Laval

Youth Open Sheffield

youth open Sheffield

To finish the year we're to highs. The first was an outdoor one with a second go ascent of Brean Topping which was supposedly 8b but I thought it wasn't that hard. It was still over the moon to get it. The next was my first competition of Youth A, although I didn't do that well in the bouldering and finished 5 but in the lead I won again which was sick! Great End



Tuppence

Tuppence

So goals for 2014, I want to climb 8c basically. I have my eyes on Rollito Sharma Extenstion in Santa Linya, so better get training. Also on a competition front I want to make another final and do some more of the bouldering competitions.

Reve De Pappilion



Misery

Glasgow

Sheffield Opens

Last weekend I travelled up to Sheffield for my first competition in Youth A. This was a biggy, the selection for the GB teams and I knew I had to do well to get selected again. The competitions were held at the Works and at the Foundry two classic walls that would both hold great competitions.

On the Saturday was the bouldering at the Works. For once I was allowed a late start so got to the wall at about 11 which was great because getting up early is just a pain. I warmed up well and our problems looked really good with just two really hard looking ones. Our time started and I got on with it. I got the first six flash and they were quite easy just technical nothing too hard. The last two problems I couldn't do at all which was a really disappointment, I fell of the first and second move on both. Just not good enough. I thought this would mean I might have missed out on the final. Luckily I made it though, but I had only to drop one problem and I would have been out of the final. Pretty close.

After a long wait in isolation which was really stressful and cramped, it was our turn to climb in the final. Our first problem was on the steep section and was so hard! I got the bonus second go but couldn't touch matching the second to last hold, it was just too hard, even Dom didn't do it! Next up was another desperate and there was another totally stopper move but William did this one which changed things about a bit. Pressure was definitely on for the last problem a vertical wall with lots of features, it looked cool. I went out and knew I had to perform well. On my first go I slipped early on which was really annoying, but second go I got the send! It was such an awesome problem but all Jim, Alex and Dom flashed it! This put me in fifth place was good but I wasn't sure if it would be good enough.

The next day was the route competition and I wasn't that fresh especially with a really early start. The wall was packed which didn't help at all but the routes looked really good and I was excited. I topped our first qualifier with no problem seeing as it was only about 7b+ but our next one looked desperate. It lots of tufas and features which didn't look fun. I watched Jim fall of really low which didn't help my confidence. Trying to keep positive I warmed up and tied into the rope. I struggled on the lower section not feeling that strong and as I got onto the roof I didn't have enough power, I fell on a big move but it was easily enough to get me into the final in joint second position. I went upstairs to relax and try to get away from the mayhem. This helped loads and having a quick nap in isolation with everyone laughing at me. Our route was what I had expected, it was the blue which once again featured lots of tufas and big moves. It looked fun but really dam hard. I walked out, feeling calmer than I ever had, and more focused. It was great. I climbed the first easy section easily and got pulling on the first section of roof. It was bouldery and I was struggling. I held a big cutloose on the tufas and managed to find a little rest. It was going well. I stuck a huge move into a pocket and got the next two holds. The next move looked desperate! I just jumped widely for the next hold without a chance to stick it. I had done my best and was really pleased with how I climbed. I watched as Alex, Dom and amazingly Will fell just before me! I had won! I was surprised to say the least but it was a great start to Youth A!

So what's next? I am going to train over the winter hopefully getting a hell of a lot stronger for the trips in Febuary and Easter! Still psyched keep going everyone!
Pete
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St Leger and Buoux Trip

This autumn half term me and the family headed out to France yet again for another climbing trip. This time we would stay in Malaucene in a nice chalet which was more like a log cabin. We were going to climb on the relatively new school crag of St leger and the really old school crag of Buoux. We thought the new school sounded most appealing so headed there first. We warmed up and like total over excited teenagers me and my brother jumped on an 8B called Abrege Nief. To my surprise I got all the moves and fell really high on my second go. The bad part was because it was so endurancy I had to leave it that day because I'd just tire myself out. Next we went down and met the Irish who were all really psyched and we tried an 8a+. I got to the last move and my foot popped! Gutted, but with some serious encouragement I sent it next go!

Old school next, we went to Buoux, did Rose au Sables to warm up and it was crazy, got a bit freighted on it though! We tried No Mans Land yet another classic Luke cruised it but I got really pumped and fell of. At only 7b this was a bit of a damper on the day. All was not lost though and Luke sent Reve de Papillion 8a first go! I thought that was crazy but then I repeated his ascent. Pretty good send train! If only I hadn't climb to the third bolt two years ago then it would have been flash. I loved this route because it was just so powerful even with a couple campus moves in it which you don't get often on routes. Bout de Monde was next and I belayed Luke as he tried La rose et le vampire 8b and basically got shut down on it not being able to do many of the moves. The Irish returned from there warm up and I tried Chouca and once again got destroyed on it not being able to do a big dyno at the fourth bolt. I got lots of abuse when I gave up on it. I belayed Dom on La Rose and watched him crush every move it was really impressive but he just couldn't link them.

After a rest day we went back to finish Abrege Nief. I felt so good on it shaking out right at the top where previously I could barely hold on! It was crazy to do an 8b third go! Feeling cocky I got on an 8B+ called Mur de six clopes. This was desperate, and had really hard moves in the top section when I'm was going to be boxed. I decided to not try it, but stripping it was the hardest thing ever. We went down to the massive and imposing Face Tranquille to try the sectors name sake which was 8a. It had crazy power moves on a burly tufa, needed some guns for it. It wasn't to bad though and it went second go. To finish I tried Prince de Lactique 8a+ which name meant prince of pump and it deserved it being 35m long and overhanging all the way but we got benighted.

Next day I quickly crushed Prince although I spent ages at the top because I forgot where to go and nearly fell of which would have been a heart beak. We left to go back up to the Abrege Nief cave to try Stiquel Man 8a+. This was another crazy route with a really boulderery start. I felt crazy strong on it and sent it seconded go! After this we returned down to the bottom and I tried Hilti Blues 8a which was desperate but I thought I could send it.

The last day of the trip didn't have a good start. I got shut down on Hilti Blues and gave up. I went to try and 8a+ called Les Epinards aux Violettes and took 3 massive falls attempting to do this dyno high above the bolts. Got bored of getting spanked and reversed it taking my clips out which was interesting to. It was a proper defeat. We returned to the bottom section with our heads held low. The Irish were there which helped to get our psych back up! I sent this 8a second go, which I thought when I tried it on the first evening was totally desperate and it felt like a really cool send. To finish of the trip I did Barbule 8a which is about 7a then a really hard boulder problem to pass this lip section. I did a huge power scream and got it second go! Amazing. As it was getting dark Jamie had one of his last attempts on Hilti, he dropped the last hard move on the route! We were all gutted for him.

I headed back satisfied with the trip and found out Dom had sent La Rose which was awesome. The trip home was long but I just couldn't wait to return because there was things left unfinished. Maybe next year!

Peter
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Laval EYC

My first and the last European bouldering cup of 2013 was last weekend, and I think it was one of the highlights of my year, also a great way to end it. It was held in a massive arena with temporary boulders, but our qualifying was in a different place which was a bit strange. We arrived and had a good rest day which involve some awesome French practice with the help of Alexia, but it was worth it for the chocolate.

The team was ready and everyone was so excited for the youth A and Junior competition the next day. The music blared as we arrived already there was a great atmosphere and they hadn't even started yet. Competing in it was Nathan, Hamish, Alex, Gracie, Molly, Tara, Jen and Rachael. I was defiantly nervous for them. It was really good to watch them climb and cheer them on without having the stress of competing myself although I really wanted to get on the wall at the end of it. The whole team was cheering so loudly for everyone and it felt fantastic. Everyone climbed really well and Nathan made the final as excepted. After a quick pre-comp meal with Tom and the youth b's: James, Ed, Will, Sid and Alexia we rushed back to watch Nathan. It was electric as we entered, and we all screamed as loud as we could when Nathan came out! He flashed the first problem, with ease and did the next quickly too. So now he had to do the last one, we were cheering so loudly when he managed to get the top, my throat was really hoarse. We were the loudest team by far. Now the only person who could beat him was this Italian and we all thought he would win, but he fell from the problem lots and on his last go we thought maybe Nathan could win! He kept fighting and our fingers were crossed. Finally he fell and we all cheered for Nathan's win! That moment was unforgettable.

So the next day was us. We drove to the wall, it was nowhere near as cool as the main arena but still the problems looked awesome and there was quite a lot of dirty problems so I was looking forward to getting suck in. Alexia and Sid both did really well, and it was now our turn to prove ourselves. I decided to try a white problem first and it really wasn't that hard but after I saw a lot of people struggling so I was happy I got it. The problems went quickly and I soon had five flashes! I need one more though and it was a black problem. I tried it but fell on a massive dyno move! It was crazy! On my third go I got it! With six tops in 8 attempts I was really pleased with my performance. I waited for the results. They came and I saw I'd made final in 5th position, with Will in 6th! I was amazed first competition first final, although gutted for Ed who came 7th. I almost straight away had to go to isolation so we headed there, everything was happening a bit fast, it was crazy. I intimidated the Austrians by cracking an apple in half, good start. We had a intense warm-up with Tom which worked really well and I was buzzing when we left for the wall.

The music was loud and the room was dark, we walked out and the crowd roared. I stepped forward and waved when the commentator called my name. The fun was over now, we had to climb. The first problem was really slopey and powerful. I crushed but not enough and fell off slapping the last hold twice! I still couldn't do it even with a crowd raiser which was something I have wanted to do for ages. So back behind the wall listening to the crowd cheering for Will, who is back really soon which means he topped either first or second go! So the pressure was on, I fell off a lot! but always got back on straight away because I wasn't getting tired. Time was running out and I was on my last go! I got the powerful  press start and walked along the volume, then came the moment, a massive dyno which I'd fallen on last go! I set up and place my foot in a cheeky bolt hole to get some extra push. I stuck it and topped out! It was such a good feeling, having the crowd cheering and knowing you had succeeded. I still had one to go so I could still make the podium if I topped it so it was all to play for. This wasn't to be though because there was a massive dyno in it that I just couldn't do. On the positive I did take some pretty cool falls but in the end I finished in 5th position and Will came in 3rd.

The competition was defiantly the best run this year the French know how to make a show. It was so fun and probably the best time I've had this year. The support was incredible and I really want to do more next year and maybe make a podium.

So next I'm going to St Leger for a route trip and I really want to do 8b+ so fingers crossed. The next competitions are the opens in Sheffield so excited for them.
Cheers Peter
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Stavanger EYC

This was the last European cup, and I'd failed twice to make final once in Imst and once in Ratho. I'm not sure how I would react to just missing out again. I'd but in so much work and I desperately wanted to get it to pay off, feeling that you aren't improving is the worst feeling in climbing. I was feeling positive for this competition though it was the smallest and two of the people who normally beat me weren't there. Hopes were high.

After all the boring travelling to Norway, we got there at about 12 at night so we couldn't see much. When I woke up though, the town that we were staying in was amazing, a nice lake outside our hotel with lots of amazing buildings. The thunder storms where cool as well, really scary though.

The wall was about 15m high not that tall for European standard but still I knew the routes would be really hard. My first qualifier was up a steep wall on black holds. I warmed up well, and was buzzing. Had butterflies though, I'd defiantly had put the pressure on myself. I sat under the route, wondering if I had put on too much pressure. The high point was a couple holds from the top so that was what I was aiming to beat. Once again messing up my knot the first time, because I was so nervous. I felt my heart hammering in my chest as I went up to the wall. I started, the first moves were really powerful and I was instantly shocked. It wasn't going well but I managed to find a rest and recover myself. I was once again calm. The next moves were really hard and this was the main section where most people fell. I kept going, but the pump had hit me and I was now struggling desperately, I did the next couple moves and was on the second to last hold! I couldn't even hold it, my route was over I just got the plus and lowered down disappointed I had been that close to topping a route.

So my next route, it looked amazing! A massive overhanging groove with some crazy moves. I was excited and on first, yes! Could set a bar for the others to follow. I wasn't as nervous this time but still I had put the pressure on. I cruised the first steep wall and just about sketched my way into the groove rest. It had been hard but I still had a couple more clips to go, it wasn't going to be easy. I did the little traverse feeling tired but still able to keep pulling, I looked up and there where only three holds left, two of which were awful looking slopers. Wow! They weren't actually that bad, and I could hold them easily. I made the last couple moves and clipped that chains! This was my first top in a European and it felt amazing! I lowered of just feeling insane knowing that everyone else would be scared silly of the bar I set. Although this wasn't as hard as I first thought and both Will and Jim both topped. So after qualification there was nothing more I could have done. I checked the results and guess what! I'd qualified in 4th place! I was shocked more than anything else to do so well.

After a good nights sleep it was final time! Waking up at about 6, I mean that is stupid why can't we have a lie-in, we deserve it. Isolation was impressive and I felt a bit weak to be there. Observation was soon and I was ready for it, but what I saw wasn't what I expected, the route had a huge double dyno in the middle! It was psyched. After my last bit of warming up I was up. I waited on the seats nervous but also buzzing. The lights where down and I walked out feeling the anticipation, I quickly read the start again and started. The first overhang was just powerful but easy. Then came the roof which was the first hard moves but I was fresh so did them easily. After getting to the two sidepulls I had took a quick rest and set up for the double dyno. It was big but not big enough, I got it and was at a great rest where I got everything back. The next couple moves where hard, and I got pumped, I knew I had to kick up a gear and climb quicker but this was my mistake, I got two crimps and didn't know what to do so I went for a massive iron cross! It was desperate and I fell. After the final I had finished in 7th place! My best result and I was happy with it. Finally a good result.

So all the lead competitions are over, and I've got Laval next the European boulder so it is time to get strong! Psyched for it!

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