Imst European Cup

This weekend I travelled with the team to the beautiful country of Austria for my first international competition of the year. The Euro was to be held on the outdoor wall in Imst, 23 metres and insanely overhanging in the second half this was one of the best walls to hold it. I'd trained hard through-out the winter and the work had been paying of with good outdoor accents on my trip to Spain so I was fairly confident I would get a good result so I was aiming for the top twenty even though it was my first year in Youth A. Going into youth A I knew would be a jump but I didn't expect the increase in ability that I found, there was no difference in distance up the route that everyone was getting and the routes were more like 8b or 8b+!

I did everything normally and climbed well, there was just one catch, I found every move I did hard and it involved pulling. Nothing was a give away however everyone else seemed to make it look easy! The first route was hell for me, not my anti-style but just a really horrendous route, not one good hold and I full crimped everything like a nutter. I got stretched out on every move, reaching as far as I could and just being tall enough to complete the sequence, having to move out of this stretched position was even harder and into the next one. This eventually took its toll and I couldn't complete this crazy high step while at full span but quite a few people dropped it here so I wasn't too upset.

The second qualifier wasn't any easier as well! However it was a lot more fun with massive moves on open handed holds which was really fun but wasn't situated to me so much. However I did get higher on this route and my attempt ended in a foot slip where I should have just kept my feet low and gone big. However I came down once again feeling like I had done alright. I feel like blaming my height but I don't think that will help me at all, just hoping for a more powerful and less stretched out route will be a waste of time because I have a feeling that big moves is the style that I am going to keep getting and I have to work to overcome this weakness anyway Sascha Lehmann who is shorter than me came second!

I thought with my performance I'd be in the low twenties or high teen's but that wasn't to be after my first route I was 32nd and finally I came 37th, I was just disappointed that I had got so much worse in comparison to everyone else, but one thing that I'm sure of is that this is the a good result because it allows me to build on it. This was a fluff up, I didn't realise how good I had to be and how much harder I should have worked to be competitive. Hopefully soon I will be back into fighting for a place in the final even though there are a ridiculous number of absolute monsters that I'm going to have to start beating to have a chance!

This performance was a set back, and with a big trip planned for the summer I'm not sure how much training I will get in but hopefully I'll do lots of climbing and it'll get me stronger. In the short run though I've got Ratho in a couple weeks so I'll hopefully do some intensive training to get a little bit more to give and fingers crossed improve my result. However I wasn't too worried because I was busy being happy for Molly and Hannah who both made finals and were really impressive oh yeah almost forgot Molly won boom go GB!

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A Muerte

Flash Over

Wow Spain is defiantly the best place in the world for sport climbing, in my opinion, I'm not sure what could top it. This year just like last year we headed out in our Easter holidays after a winter of intensive training. I was really excited and spent hours memorising all the information in the guide books and researching loads of climbs I wanted to do on 8a.nu. Their was one main goal though Rollito Sharma Extension 8c, I'd trained towards this route and this fed my motivation to get stronger.

Flash Over

So we travelled out and my brother and I were like little kids in a candy shop! Maybe a bit too enthusiastic going to Santa Linya straight away, we met Anak Verhoven there who we have competed with and first met at Saint Leger, once again a marvel of the climbing network! Bit over keen we warmed up and got straight on the 8c, yeah surprise we got really shut down. I also worked an 8b called Niu de Chut which I got all the moves on and thought it was soft.

So day two we started, got up early and headed to Terradets, the sterotype of a sport cliff with 30m endurance tests all the way along the wall. Turned out I was feeling fit and I fired off Golpe de Gas 8b second go and as I was getting tired screamed and fought my way up Non Stop 8b. This was an amazing day and was when I realised that I could push it this trip.


Climbing at El Falco

The next day brought me back to earth as I dropped a 7a warming up. Next I tried an 8a+ which I backed off and I wasn't feeling that good. I was worried maybe I had burnt out already, but things started to get better and I onsighted a 7c which I really enjoyed and was a bit of a hidden gem. We then moved to a crag called Camarsa which was one of the oldest crags in that area, some of the climbing was bit too roadside for my liking but we did some routes their before heading to sector La Font which held the amazing orange wall of Font Picant 8a. I decided to go for the onsight not really expecting much, the moves through the crux flowed really well and I found myself above it. I dug deep and for the first time was positively talking myself through the top section in my head and it worked my first 8a onsight, although gutted for Luke who dropped the last hard move on the flash.

  After a rest day it was time to try to have a proper redpoint go at Rollito Sharma, it wasn't to be though and I couldn't get through the desperate crux on the 8b+ section which was a bit rubbish but felt better when I saw some Belgian wad falling there as well. That day I finished of Nuit de Chut extension 8b which turned out to be hard and I almost dropped clipping the chains that would have been a heart breaker! I finished the day with an 8a and tried an 8a+. The Austrian Youth team showed up which was fun because I knew most of them and they are always a good laugh, although we did feel a bit outnumbered. Final day in Santa Linya and I tried the 8a+ again but couldn't do maybe next time! Gaz Parry turned up which was cool because he was like a beta god and with his and Anaks help I sent Koala 8b second go. Then I did an 8a and two 7c+ to finish off but really I know I'm not finished and will hopefully be returning there soon to finish off Rollito Sharma!

Non Stop 8b

No rest and we went straight to meet 'the Northern Lot' to climb in Suirana and Margalef. Previously I didn't have the best experience with Suirana finding it too vertical and fingery but this time it blew me away. Classics like La Cara que no miente 8a+ and Ramadan 8b went on the first day. Good job to Alex also sending them. Another good send that day was getting a lift offered from the first guy I tried to hitch! The following day we went to the same place and I tried Kale Borroka 8b+. Let me describe it a 38m orange wall at an outrageous angle for most of its length split by one crack system covered in chalk. It was a line and I didn't find it that bad. On my first redpoint I fell on the top crux. Michaela Tracy told us the day before that the 8a+ next to Ramadan was actually harder so always keen for a sandbag set off to try it. Alex was getting bored by the time I'd figured out all the moves and they were hard, I don't think I'll ever crimp so hard. I got on a redpoint and was fresh through it but just lost crimp strength towards the end and ended up holding a hideous deadpoint to a mono. Hardest move I've ever done? Felt like it! Of course I made it look harder than it was and Alex went to cruise it.



Non stop

Next day was the first day in Margalef and there was one route I wanted to do, Flash Over 8b+. I just wasn't focused that day and fluffed it too many times and eventually ran out of energy, I'd failed. I wasn't down for long though because watching Billy send Dando Brea 8a was pretty inspirational good effort!

The rest day was full of sun tanning and swimming although I'm not sure swimming across the lake at Margalef was the greatest idea maybe a bit reckless. After this I was refreshed for a siege on Kale Borroka. Two other people where trying it so there was a good buzz and I went up on my first attempt and got to the final crux again but couldn't stick it. One of the guys suggested a change of foot beta at the top and I decided I'd use this. I sent it next go and it was weird I wasn't that over the moon to send it but I just felt fulfilled because I'd climbed it perfectly and to be honest it didn't feel hard. I think I'm not going to get that very often it was really special.

Last day with the Northern lot was at El Falco Arboli and I spent it climbing low 7's and just really enjoyed it. The last night was interesting and just to say the following morning I wasn't feeling my best but it was my last chance on Flash Over 8b+. I only did one warm up and decided to get straight on it. Without expectation I climbed, I felt crap but kept going move after move. At the top I was boxed but clipped the chains in a daze. That was unexpected. Luke sent El Fustigador 8a+ and made it look easy so a good day all around. Luke and I finished on a ledge at Suirana climbing beautiful routes and finished just as the rain came in. Wow, I have to say it was fun.

Thanks everyone that made it an amazing trip, thanks to Mike for getting me in shape and thanks to Dewerstone for the support!



The crew!

Building it all up

Chimes of Freedom 8a+

Although not going on any trips for this first part of the year I've been super busy, with basically training. I'm conscience of the standard rising all around me in competitions and I feel like I'm at the age that I really start pushing myself for example, I've started fingerboarding regularly, which paid off this week were I sent Tuppence Ha'penny 8b+ and managed to do the uber-crimpy start of Fisherman's Tail another instance was sending Chimes Of Freedom 8a+ at Raven Tor which was my first hard route on Peak limestone and I hope there will be many more to come!

Zaff Skoczylas 7C

Also when I'm up in Sheffield I get out on the gritsone. It truly is a great rock and I've found it really hard to adjust my typical powerful limestone style to the intricate nature of grit. It was hard and some days I'd just go away feeling really demoralised especially when I ended up making my finger bleed and freezing cold after failing on Electrical Storm 7B, although that is one I'm going to have to get back to. However I had done some really memorable problems for example doing this high arête when Dad wasn't looking!

Training at the Works

Life in a Radioactive Dustbin

I got four days in the couple months and finally in the fourth day at Stanage it all clicked. It was with the GB bouldering team and we where given a Hueco rock rodeo format to try to send as many problems as possible, warming up on pebble arête one of the most beautiful climbs on grit. The business boulder was next and I tried Jerry's Traverse 7C which was a power-endurance traverse done by the famous Jerry Moffat. Sam Whittaker was there to give me beta so that really helped and I soon figured out the easiest sequence, not long later I sent it but had to dig really hard to get it and it felt right at my limit. I then got Green Slap 7A which I couldn't touch last time I tried it. Their was one problem that I wanted to do that day and it was Brad Pitt 7C, I'd tried it last year and got close falling on the final move. This year though one of the holds was damp and everyone was saying it would be impossible! I was psyched though and the main holds where dry so I gave it a shot, first go I got to the last move, that was when I realise it would go. With some great encouragement from the rest of the team I managed to stick it on my fifth go!

Boulder Training at the Works

Brad Pitt

I've also had lots of training days with the various teams. Everyone I've come back refreshed with new motivation and new ideas on how to train. I've met some great people during these and its been really fun training with some of the best climbers in the world. Another reason for going up to Sheffield was the CWIF which was a great competition and team psych( James, Ed, Alexia and myself) where in high spirits!

So its the Easter holidays are here what I've been working towards. I think I've trained well, first with lots of volume now recently getting in lots of hard redpoints and bouldering however I'm still nervous to see if it pays off. Lets hope it does!

Also thanks to Dewerstone Lifestyle for supplying me and Luke with some great clothes.

Over the Moon!

2013 Roundup

This year has been amazing.  It really started in February half term when I went with some friends to El Chorro, an amazing climb destination in the south of Spain. There I climbed my first 8a+ which was a great start. After that I had a trip to Spain in easter where I did my first 8B called La bombi and my second one called Nina Mala.  During term I took a project at Ansteys cove called Tuppence which was a classic 8b, it was a proper project and a finally got it which was great! Next up was basically the time for competitions and I had the Glasgow bouldering open which I finished second and the Ratho European where I finished 11th.


Poema de Roca L2, El chorro

Stavanger



8a in El Chorro

Imst

Canada

Next came the summer holidays were first we went to frankenjura to do some outdoor climbing. It had been amazing the last year and it was no disappointment again. I sent three 8a+ and my favourite being Misery. After that I went to Austria and climbed in the Zillertal and competed in Imst where I finished 12th. Next was back home to compete in the Leeds open where I finished 2nd in the boulder and 1st in the routes which was amazing because it was my first win. The World Championships was next and I travelled to Canada which was the first time I'd been out of the Europe. The trip was amazing and I finished in 13th place with great memories.



Leads Youth Open

 After some down time, it was time for the last to competitions of the season, Stavanger and Laval which were my last two chances to make a final. This came easier than I thought! In Stavanger I qualified in 4th place and finished in 7th overall which was great. In Laval which was my first bouldering European. I was really surprised to qualify in 5th position and after the final retain that position. It was crazy. I had half-term where I went to Saint Leger in France. We met up with the Irish and it was really fun I got another 8b called Abrage Nief. Also sending loads of 8a+s and 8as.



Laval

BLCCs

Laval

Youth Open Sheffield

youth open Sheffield

To finish the year we're to highs. The first was an outdoor one with a second go ascent of Brean Topping which was supposedly 8b but I thought it wasn't that hard. It was still over the moon to get it. The next was my first competition of Youth A, although I didn't do that well in the bouldering and finished 5 but in the lead I won again which was sick! Great End



Tuppence

Tuppence

So goals for 2014, I want to climb 8c basically. I have my eyes on Rollito Sharma Extenstion in Santa Linya, so better get training. Also on a competition front I want to make another final and do some more of the bouldering competitions.

Reve De Pappilion



Misery

Glasgow

Sheffield Opens

Last weekend I travelled up to Sheffield for my first competition in Youth A. This was a biggy, the selection for the GB teams and I knew I had to do well to get selected again. The competitions were held at the Works and at the Foundry two classic walls that would both hold great competitions.

On the Saturday was the bouldering at the Works. For once I was allowed a late start so got to the wall at about 11 which was great because getting up early is just a pain. I warmed up well and our problems looked really good with just two really hard looking ones. Our time started and I got on with it. I got the first six flash and they were quite easy just technical nothing too hard. The last two problems I couldn't do at all which was a really disappointment, I fell of the first and second move on both. Just not good enough. I thought this would mean I might have missed out on the final. Luckily I made it though, but I had only to drop one problem and I would have been out of the final. Pretty close.

After a long wait in isolation which was really stressful and cramped, it was our turn to climb in the final. Our first problem was on the steep section and was so hard! I got the bonus second go but couldn't touch matching the second to last hold, it was just too hard, even Dom didn't do it! Next up was another desperate and there was another totally stopper move but William did this one which changed things about a bit. Pressure was definitely on for the last problem a vertical wall with lots of features, it looked cool. I went out and knew I had to perform well. On my first go I slipped early on which was really annoying, but second go I got the send! It was such an awesome problem but all Jim, Alex and Dom flashed it! This put me in fifth place was good but I wasn't sure if it would be good enough.

The next day was the route competition and I wasn't that fresh especially with a really early start. The wall was packed which didn't help at all but the routes looked really good and I was excited. I topped our first qualifier with no problem seeing as it was only about 7b+ but our next one looked desperate. It lots of tufas and features which didn't look fun. I watched Jim fall of really low which didn't help my confidence. Trying to keep positive I warmed up and tied into the rope. I struggled on the lower section not feeling that strong and as I got onto the roof I didn't have enough power, I fell on a big move but it was easily enough to get me into the final in joint second position. I went upstairs to relax and try to get away from the mayhem. This helped loads and having a quick nap in isolation with everyone laughing at me. Our route was what I had expected, it was the blue which once again featured lots of tufas and big moves. It looked fun but really dam hard. I walked out, feeling calmer than I ever had, and more focused. It was great. I climbed the first easy section easily and got pulling on the first section of roof. It was bouldery and I was struggling. I held a big cutloose on the tufas and managed to find a little rest. It was going well. I stuck a huge move into a pocket and got the next two holds. The next move looked desperate! I just jumped widely for the next hold without a chance to stick it. I had done my best and was really pleased with how I climbed. I watched as Alex, Dom and amazingly Will fell just before me! I had won! I was surprised to say the least but it was a great start to Youth A!

So what's next? I am going to train over the winter hopefully getting a hell of a lot stronger for the trips in Febuary and Easter! Still psyched keep going everyone!
Pete
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St Leger and Buoux Trip

This autumn half term me and the family headed out to France yet again for another climbing trip. This time we would stay in Malaucene in a nice chalet which was more like a log cabin. We were going to climb on the relatively new school crag of St leger and the really old school crag of Buoux. We thought the new school sounded most appealing so headed there first. We warmed up and like total over excited teenagers me and my brother jumped on an 8B called Abrege Nief. To my surprise I got all the moves and fell really high on my second go. The bad part was because it was so endurancy I had to leave it that day because I'd just tire myself out. Next we went down and met the Irish who were all really psyched and we tried an 8a+. I got to the last move and my foot popped! Gutted, but with some serious encouragement I sent it next go!

Old school next, we went to Buoux, did Rose au Sables to warm up and it was crazy, got a bit freighted on it though! We tried No Mans Land yet another classic Luke cruised it but I got really pumped and fell of. At only 7b this was a bit of a damper on the day. All was not lost though and Luke sent Reve de Papillion 8a first go! I thought that was crazy but then I repeated his ascent. Pretty good send train! If only I hadn't climb to the third bolt two years ago then it would have been flash. I loved this route because it was just so powerful even with a couple campus moves in it which you don't get often on routes. Bout de Monde was next and I belayed Luke as he tried La rose et le vampire 8b and basically got shut down on it not being able to do many of the moves. The Irish returned from there warm up and I tried Chouca and once again got destroyed on it not being able to do a big dyno at the fourth bolt. I got lots of abuse when I gave up on it. I belayed Dom on La Rose and watched him crush every move it was really impressive but he just couldn't link them.

After a rest day we went back to finish Abrege Nief. I felt so good on it shaking out right at the top where previously I could barely hold on! It was crazy to do an 8b third go! Feeling cocky I got on an 8B+ called Mur de six clopes. This was desperate, and had really hard moves in the top section when I'm was going to be boxed. I decided to not try it, but stripping it was the hardest thing ever. We went down to the massive and imposing Face Tranquille to try the sectors name sake which was 8a. It had crazy power moves on a burly tufa, needed some guns for it. It wasn't to bad though and it went second go. To finish I tried Prince de Lactique 8a+ which name meant prince of pump and it deserved it being 35m long and overhanging all the way but we got benighted.

Next day I quickly crushed Prince although I spent ages at the top because I forgot where to go and nearly fell of which would have been a heart beak. We left to go back up to the Abrege Nief cave to try Stiquel Man 8a+. This was another crazy route with a really boulderery start. I felt crazy strong on it and sent it seconded go! After this we returned down to the bottom and I tried Hilti Blues 8a which was desperate but I thought I could send it.

The last day of the trip didn't have a good start. I got shut down on Hilti Blues and gave up. I went to try and 8a+ called Les Epinards aux Violettes and took 3 massive falls attempting to do this dyno high above the bolts. Got bored of getting spanked and reversed it taking my clips out which was interesting to. It was a proper defeat. We returned to the bottom section with our heads held low. The Irish were there which helped to get our psych back up! I sent this 8a second go, which I thought when I tried it on the first evening was totally desperate and it felt like a really cool send. To finish of the trip I did Barbule 8a which is about 7a then a really hard boulder problem to pass this lip section. I did a huge power scream and got it second go! Amazing. As it was getting dark Jamie had one of his last attempts on Hilti, he dropped the last hard move on the route! We were all gutted for him.

I headed back satisfied with the trip and found out Dom had sent La Rose which was awesome. The trip home was long but I just couldn't wait to return because there was things left unfinished. Maybe next year!

Peter
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