|Getting the onsight of Infiziert 9+.|
It seems in recent years the vibe of sport climbing has turned to long, orange, tufa-crusted climbs in holiday destinations like Spain or a Greek island. I think maybe we’ve gone soft as back in the 80’s it was all short, hard and nasty. The epitome of this style is the German forest of Frankenjura an hour north of Nuremburg. The likes of Wolfgang Gullich and Sebastian Schwertner climbed the initial desperates then Marcus Bock and Alex Megos raised the bar to provide some of the hardest climbs in the world. Therefore, I decided see what it was all about and myself and Rob McTague travelled there for a month at the start of June.
|Even clipping is hard on Frankenjura routes!|
|Getting my wings out on the small pockets on Kelu 10|
The final area we often visited was the Kleinziegenfelder Tal which has crags like Holzgauer Wand, Rolandfels and Toni Scmid Gedekenkwand. These crags have an abundance of sustained power endurance climbs up to twenty metres with classics like ‘Nimue’ 9-/9, ‘Nikita’ 10-, ‘Infiziert’ 9+ and ‘Mambo Cavallero’ 9-. The first time we visited the Holzgauer Wand a local had brought a banjo and proceeded to play the crustiest music while his friends accompanied him by tapping on tupperwares and blowing over bottles. We experienced similar friendliness at Rolandfels with a woman offering me her knee-bar pad for a flash attempt on ‘Respektios’ and a couple guys peer-pressuring me into trying ‘Kelu’.
This generous, laid-back nature was embodied by our hosts Christian and Roly at Bed and Boulder. They helped us sort out our car disaster and Christian showed us around his boulders in the local area when we were stranded. These were beautiful, secluded spots with nice rock and movement. I even did a first ascent called ‘The Kane’ after Harry Kane scored the last-minute winner in the World Cup. The combination of history, self-less people, varied rock and challenging climbs will for sure make this a popular destination for years to come. Although my recommendation comes with a warning that every route here will make you work, no matter if it is five grades below your best it’ll still push you however this surely helps the improvement and is more fun!
|Trying to get my finger out of the mono on Queeel Disch, du Sauuu 10/+|