It was autumn and the sunset matched the colour of the
trees. Each morning I’d wake up go, buy pasties and go climbing. My half term
couldn’t have been much better. Each venue bringing something slightly
different; the dark reflective pines of 95.2, the hustle and bustle of Cuvier,
the vast quantities of boulders on offer knocked me flat and quite often I’d
finish flat on my back after being spat off again.
I’m going to choose three reasons why this was a trip of
such variety. The first would the feeling of just learn to climb afresh. I felt
like I was ten again venturing out of England for the first time to touch
European sandstone. Each sequence was subtle. A perfect example was Beurre
Marga 6B+ at Isatis. This climb like the patterns on the bark was complex and
full of intricacies. This wasn’t about strength or power, it was about
learning. Each go I slightly further, a foot move and hand move. Until I was
stood on top of the boulder knowing I’d climbed that perfectly.
The second was climbing hard. You don’t go to font without
wanting to come back with some hard ticks to your name. I improved massively
over this trip and it was on the last day I did the hardest boulder. This was
Rencard 7C. I’m a simple climber, I don’t like fancy toes and heels. All of
that just seems to complicate the climbing for me. Although a simple move can
have just as many tricks. Rencard was a pull off the floor to a bad sidepull
off a bad sloper. The first go I didn’t feel like I could pull off the floor, I
thought of quitting then. The next go I managed to pull off. The next go I
touched the next hold. Maybe I could do what had originally felt impossible for
me. When it all came together I was ecstatic it felt right at the limit of what
I could do, the hardest possible moves. Any climbers dream.
The third were the ones that got away. L’ange Naif 7C would
be a perfect example. This boulder consisted of one big move. You had to fly. I
made progress and eventually I was almost getting my fingertips over the top.
However my ability can’t last forever and I started to get worse and worse. I
left defeated. Still this has only made me hungry to return.
So what’s next? Well I am once again going to Santa Linya.
Last time I failed on Rollito Sharma but this time I am set to do it. Let’s
hope it plays ball.
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