Magic Wood

After Ceuse it was time for the second part of the trip. Magic Wood! This was my first time visiting this famous bouldering venue. I’d heard stories of bad landings, soft grades and the best bouldering in Europe. I got there and it didn’t disappoint there was everything I hoped for and more.

There were bad landings, one of the first problems we tried was called Pirannha which was a 7c/+. This one had a track record of breaking people but I thought the landing looked flat. Soon Ed was getting close to the crux deadpoint but he came off awkwardly and twisted his ankle, there I was thinking the landing was solid. I kept trying but being extra careful now, eventually I managed the deadpoint and tried it from the start which adds about six moves of easier climbing and did it straight away! Some problems however just have god awful landings like Hohenrausch 7b+ but after first sight at this climb I knew I wanted to do it. It’s a perfect smooth wall split with edges and they get smaller as you get higher. The last move was the crux and it was high above the slanted landing and death pit to make matters worse it was very dynamic. I tried a few times and got to the end and chickened out. I persuaded myself that James would stop me dying and went for the last move. I stuck it then pulled over the top. My heart was beating pretty fast by then.

Jack's Broken Heart, the crux move

We had the new guide book which had downgraded loads of problems to a slash grade which seemed stupid for example Pirannha was 7c/+. I wish they would just make up their minds. One of these problems was Jack’s Broken Heart 8a/+. This problem I’d seen in loads of videos and always thought it looked incredible and would really suit me. The line was a row of flat rails that traversed a steep lip. I tried the problem on my first day and found I could do all the moves but linking them felt miles beyond me. On one of the last days we went back for Jack’s and I knew all the moves so just tried from the start, I power screamed my head off and managed to pull it out of the bag. Another stupid slash grade problem was The Bomb is Explosion 7c+/8a. This wasn’t a great line neither was it a cool sequence it was just one very very hard move which for me gives a quality problem. The day we went to try it was a wash out even the Roof of Darkness was wet so this must have been the only dry boulder. The move is pull-on through a heel on and slap for a jug. The problem wasn’t very complicated. After a few goes to recruit the biceps I stuck the jug and climbed to the top. This is probably the hardest move I’ve ever done.

The bouldering was world class no doubt about that. Two problems stood out for me Blown Away 7b and Swizz Beats 7c+. Blown Away we did to finish a day climbing and the sun had set so we needed to use the flood light. Angels couldn’t have made a better line, it was a rail across this massive over hang that was athletic, pumpy and with a scary top-out. We all climbed it and agreed it was an all-time great. Swizz Beats was significantly harder, it wasn’t the best line but the moves on it blew every other climb out of the water. You had to squeeze with every part of your body to stay on the start with toe-hooks being the key then it finished with a technical slab climb. I tried this for a couple sessions but couldn’t quite do the first two moves although it felt like five moves because of the foot sequence. One day when I went up I just tried the problem from the start first time and sent it which was a bit of a miracle.

Spending only ten days here was plenty of time and I’m super keen to get back here again and push my bouldering more. I tried some problems that I didn’t send like Massive Attack 8a+, Steppenwolf 8b and Left Hand of Darkness 8a/8a+. I think it’s important to try things that stop you to motivated you to get stronger so that’s the goal now.

No place like Spain

Cronica 8b

Imagine the most beautiful walls of orange and blue limestone looking over rolling Spanish countryside. It looks pretty good. Not to mention the walls hold some of the best climbing in the World on them. This place is Siurana, a climber’s paradise. This was my fourth visit to this area and each time I’ve found it more incredible than the last.

What impressed me most was how individual all the routes where. Nothing was the same and each route I did felt very unique and memorable. The first route I went for was Migranya 8b at a sector called L’Olla. This was a pure power endurance festival of pump. After struggling to do the fourth move. I was wondering if this route would be possible for me. I went from the ground and gave it my all sticking the move and sending the route. Also on L’Olla, next to Migranya is Cronica 8b which is a pure power route. Although right next to Migranya it has a significantly different feel with big slaps, long locks and a dyno to finish the crux. All the time spent on the training board paid off on this one and I sent it on my second go.

El Mon de Sofia 8b+

El Mon de Sofia 8b+

Now it was time to find some harder projects. There really was only one place to go; El Pati. I think this is the best cliff in the world with quality route going from 7a to 9b and a good route to go at every grade between. I’d done one of the 8b+’s on the wall and now it was time for the next one. It was called El mon de Sofia, it had got a reputation for being quite stiff. The route followed a smooth bulging wall into a vertical blue streak at the top where some very technical moves guarded the chains. The same day I headed to Campi qui pugui on the other side of Siurana. This wall is one of the older school venues and the routes are classic, hard and thin. Here I tried Renegoide 8b+. Which require ice cool focus for six clips to make no mistakes on the ultra-technical vertical start.  

El Mon De Sofia 8b+

Siurana isn’t the only world class area nearby just down the road is Margalef. It’s crazy to have two of the best climbing areas in the world so close. When Siurana is crimps, corners and cracks Margalef is the antithesis being the capital of pocket pulling. We spent a few days here and I mainly focused on flashing stuff and I climbed many great routes. A highlight was Artisans 7c+ which was the finest leaning wall on pockets, pure perfection! I also tried L’Espidiamos 8c briefly and this has inspired me to get stronger so I can send it next time.

Telemaster 8a

 Now with the projects I had to create the right conditions to send them. This trip I’ve learnt lots about projecting and being able to create a record-breaking ascent. Most of the work is done before hard training to become strong enough to do it. Although 
 
 
 
 
when the moment comes you need everything to go right. For El mon de Sofia I rested in the morning and kept myself active so by the evening I was full of energy, light and super motivated. The first go I fell from the crux move a massive slap to a crimp. I really liked this move as it wasn’t technical, you could lock it out it was just generating the power and the co-ordination to stick the hold. On the next try I stuck it and climbed the rest of the technical top with laser precision. For Renegoide I tried it in the morning and it was too hot and I discovered a bee’s nest on the route. This caused me to have to wait again until the evening to try it, another great lesson as I had to resist the urge not to climb other routes. The evening came and I put the draws in the top off the route, discovering yet another bee’s nest at the top of the route which seemed to have sprung out of nowhere. Now was time for an attempt. I climbed all the hard bit smoothly and efficiently. The best bit was executing such a technical sequence so well. However, it wasn’t over I rested and some of the bees started flying around my head. I prayed for them not to turn from curious to aggressive. Thankfully I recovered and climbed to the top of the route!

Telemaster 8a

Some places I go and I enjoyed it but don’t feel that motivated to go back to and some places I climb my hardest at but still am not that motivated to return but this area has got me hooked. Each time I return home I can only start wishing for another opportunity to return to climb on these special cliffs. I wonder what my next visit will bring?

The Monkeys in France know how to Dance

The Beautiful Wall of Seynes

Going climbing isn't just about pushing yourself hard but sometimes is about learning new things and techniques. These five days climbing seem to have lead to one of the steepest learning curves I've ever experienced. This revelation occurred mainly at Seynes but we also climbed a couple days at Russan. Seynes is a beautiful cliff, 40m tall with a lower half covered in the biggest tufas in the world and an upper wall full of crimps. I started my quest with Le tube naturale 6c+. I pulled onto slippery tufas and tried squeezing my way up between two tufas an arm span apart. It wasn't until I was truly pumped did it occur to me to maybe chimney up it!
 I'm going to focus on three routes. The first, El Dinosaure, was culture shock into tufas, the second, Shakara, was the learning process and the third, Les Maitres Des Colles was putting it all into practise.

Le 32 Metres 8a+. It's not all tufas!

One line stuck me from my first sight of the crag. El Dinosaure 8a+, where the upper wall is mainly crimps it is broken by one perfect tufa. It looked like the spine of a T-rex and getting up it looked like a harder fight than a velociraptor. I went for the onsight, as soon as I reached the top wall, I was swinging sides of the tufa and trying desperately to get knee-bars but pulling through was the only real solution. While I rested, the tufa reared it's head at me. It challenged me to see if I was strong enough, technical enough. Did I have the grit? After pulling through one more clip my arms were shaking and I was squeezing the tufa with legs. Sweating just to stay on. I was really riding El Dinosaure now. The next hold was a pocket, I tried desperately to reach it but slipped off! Panting I sat on the rope and thought what could have been. I learnt the sequence and lowered off. When it came to my second go everything seemed easier, the moves came easily and I was able to appreciate the quality of the route without it being an all out fight.  

Squeezing hard on Le Maitre Des Colles 8a

On the first day I had chickened out of this climb as it looked more like a wrestling match than a climb. It was called Shakara 7c. Once again I went for the onsight. I climbed smoothly up the tufa then it started to become round and I put up some kneebars. To move I had to thrust up my knee then slap up with me hands. I was squeezing this big round blob, my chest getting tired and my calf screaming for me to get onto some proper climbing. I gritted my teeth, took the pain and climbed to the top. After this I realises the effort that took. Shakara felt like a 40m packed into half that height.

Now was the final day and it was starting to cool down, a local recommended Les Maitre des colles 8a. I'd looked at this but it looked like the pinnacle of slippery tufas. It started juggy then the sides smoothed out and I was getting ready to commit onto the smooth sides. I smeared up, my body perfectly poised between slipping and barndooring. Gritstone aretes eat your heart out at least they have grip! I made it to a solid hold and breathed deep. I needed to hold it together as I climbed past the last slopey monster. I clipped the chains over the moon! That was one of the best performances I've ever had on an onsight and it was all down to the practise. Like they say practise makes perfect.

Pinch!!!!! El Dinosaure 8a+

The Spain Game

Over the past few months I have been waiting, anticipating, preparing for one thing, going back to Spain. Catalonia is the centre for sport climbing in the world and every aspiring sport climber has come to face the challenge of the areas hardest routes. Last time I had gone was two years ago and the hardest I had climbed was 8b+ but could I do one better? 8c?

The first two days were a shock but I'd expected that. I was just getting into it. On the third day things clicked. We travelled to Oliana, which is a really futuristic crag with endurance routes up to 50 metres! The route I tried was called China Crisis, about 35m of slightly leaning wall guarded at the bottom by two fierce boulder problems.  On my second try I climbed shakily with my arms almost giving in on every move. I was at the last clip but I fell going to a crimp, 35m of climbing  and I'd have to start from the bottom again. Next go I climbed well and efficiently reaching where I fell the go before and easily doing the moves. Yes I got it! In the evening I tried Fish Eye but got shut down by a move at the top which was pretty gutting! However next to China Crisis was an 8c called T-1 full equip.
The next day was going back to an old enemy. Rollito Sharma 8b+, this route was the opposite to China Crisis. It was about 20 metres long and really hard the whole way up it. On all the goes that day I made it to the crux but wasn't anywhere near doing it as I was just too pumped.

Ok now it was back to Oliana, to try T-1 full equip. My first go I did all the moves but up high was some desperate moves on tiny holds. Next go was a little better and I managed to do the boulders at the start where the second felt about 7B. I also managed to find a better sequence on the top although it was still hard. I wanted to do something that day so I sent La Marroncita 8b second go. With the sun dying and the air chilling off I decided to give it an all out attempt. The Spanish have a phrase a muerte which means to climb until death giving it everything and holding nothing back. I was going to go a muerte. I wasn't surprised when I got through the boulders at the bottom but I wasn't very pumped at all. I set up for the first hard crimp sequence and it went! Now I was panicking the next one wasn't as hard maybe I could do this, I slowed myself down and chilled out. I knew I could do it. Moves where previously I had slapped I now grabbed static and before I knew it I was clipping the chains! My first 8c! I was over the moon.

I didn't want to stop there though, I still had Rollito Sharma and I wanted to try to climb 8a+ first go. The next day we went to Terradets. The climbing is unreal there. A 35m leaning wall dripping with tufas situated in a gorge full of 600m walls. I started by climbing 8b which was one I'd left unfinished from the first two days. When it felt loads easier it might have been foreshadowing a great day. Next I flashed an 8a Luke had tried a couple days ago. I was just getting going next came an 8a onsight where I fought like a savage through the final crux. A friendly Spanish man was trying a 8a+ and I watched him to get the beta then I would try to flash it. I managed to get through the boulder problem start now I thought maybe I could do it. I climbed into a big pocket and pulled onto two bad crimps above it. I was stuck with a heel in the hole, above my head a huge spike! Just out of reach to get it comfortably, I jumped and felt my feet swing out wildly but the spike was good enough for me to control the swing and I stuck it. From there I was in and I climbed to the top of my first 8a+ flash!

Now the only thing left was Rollito Sharma and I took a rest day to recover. This was going to be my last chance. I was lucky the moves felt easier and I knew I had a good chance of doing it. My first go from the start I stuck the crux move but was too shocked to keep myself together and get to the end of the crux. Right I just needed to keep my head together. The next time I got through the crux but only just and now I had a brief rest. I thought that I might not be able to do the crux again so I was really nervous for the final hard move, probably the hardest move on the route. I set up and jumped for the next hold. I held it and had the power to match in to the pocket. I got the bat hang rest which was super comfy because of my Evolv Shamans and felt psyched that I was going to do it! I clipped the chains after probably doing one of the hardest routes I'd ever done.

The last few days I took easy and just enjoyed the climbing still I managed to flash Mon Dieu another 8a+ at Oliana and I dropped the last move on a 8a+ onsight so maybe that'll be the next goal!  

Fontainbleau

It was autumn and the sunset matched the colour of the trees. Each morning I’d wake up go, buy pasties and go climbing. My half term couldn’t have been much better. Each venue bringing something slightly different; the dark reflective pines of 95.2, the hustle and bustle of Cuvier, the vast quantities of boulders on offer knocked me flat and quite often I’d finish flat on my back after being spat off again.

I’m going to choose three reasons why this was a trip of such variety. The first would the feeling of just learn to climb afresh. I felt like I was ten again venturing out of England for the first time to touch European sandstone. Each sequence was subtle. A perfect example was Beurre Marga 6B+ at Isatis. This climb like the patterns on the bark was complex and full of intricacies. This wasn’t about strength or power, it was about learning. Each go I slightly further, a foot move and hand move. Until I was stood on top of the boulder knowing I’d climbed that perfectly.

The second was climbing hard. You don’t go to font without wanting to come back with some hard ticks to your name. I improved massively over this trip and it was on the last day I did the hardest boulder. This was Rencard 7C. I’m a simple climber, I don’t like fancy toes and heels. All of that just seems to complicate the climbing for me. Although a simple move can have just as many tricks. Rencard was a pull off the floor to a bad sidepull off a bad sloper. The first go I didn’t feel like I could pull off the floor, I thought of quitting then. The next go I managed to pull off. The next go I touched the next hold. Maybe I could do what had originally felt impossible for me. When it all came together I was ecstatic it felt right at the limit of what I could do, the hardest possible moves. Any climbers dream.

The third were the ones that got away. L’ange Naif 7C would be a perfect example. This boulder consisted of one big move. You had to fly. I made progress and eventually I was almost getting my fingertips over the top. However my ability can’t last forever and I started to get worse and worse. I left defeated. Still this has only made me hungry to return.

So what’s next? Well I am once again going to Santa Linya. Last time I failed on Rollito Sharma but this time I am set to do it. Let’s hope it plays ball.

British Championships 2015

British Championships 2015

After not a brilliant result in Arco, I had no idea what to expect at the British Lead climbing Championships. Last year I finished 3^rd and 8^th so I would have liked to finish slightly higher. The competition was held at Awesome Walls Sheffield which was one of my favourite arenas to perform.

The first day was the junior competition. I felt like an underdog going into this one but I’m British I love an underdog.  Our first qualifier was a vertical crimp festival. I watched multiple climbers fall suddenly from the finger-tip holds. Getting ready to set off I knew one misplaced foot or a sudden movement could spell utter disaster. I was cautious, slow and precise. I felt my arms starting to throb spelling the end of my attempt but I was on the second to last hold. The finish in my sight. I set my cross-hairs at the target and committed myself fully. I fell short but it was still a good performance although maybe not good enough for a 3^rd place.

Next route I was lucky. I was first up. A chance to show everyone else I was there to mean business. Pace was everything, no time to stop to think I threw myself into harder and harder moves. I started to breath heavily. I fell right at the top having given my all.

I was through to the finals in 3^rd position. We waited in isolation, every minute ramping up the tension I felt. Coiled like a spring I sat in the chair waiting for the fateful call which meant it was my turn. I hit the wall running, doing each move as fast and efficiently as possible only stopping to refocus. I got to a big sloper at the lip and could only really hold it with one hand. I pulled down hard at the same moment feeling my feet swing into space. All or nothing. I felt my hands latch down, preventing my weight pulling me off and breath out a sigh of relief. The crowd cheered for me sticking the move. Now I had to earn a position. I knew the next move might be the difference between 4^th and 3^rd then between 3^rd and 2^nd or even between 2^nd and 1^st. I hung on desperately with my fingers slowly slipping and once again took aim to top the route, I gave absolutely everything but I didn’t have the recoil to create the momentum to stick it. I watched in awe as Jim went on to top the route pushing me into second position.

The next day was the seniors. I recognised many of the people I saw from UKclimbing.com articles for sending their recent desperate 8c+/9a projects. I was first up again on my first qualifier. This time I wasn’t too keen because it looked like a really technical slab. The bottom turned out to be easy but as I climbed high the holds got worse and worse. I got to a volume and I needed a high step, like really high. I decided I’d display my legendary flexibility which I’d been training for ages, it took me about 6 attempts to get my foot up. I wobbled on this volume. Tried to find balance. I think I need to spend more time slacklining as I twisted and fell off.

Only six went through to final, a small number, six of Britain’s best. Would I be one of them? The next route would decide. I climbed fast but found it hard, my body stretched out, tortured. I felt like a spider with someone pulling its legs. I made it to the change of direction. I rested, thinking of nothing but the climbing, everything was about the climbing. About 10 moves left. With each move my arms weakened but I was on the last hold! I clipped the chains! I was in final.

I’d spent many hours in school looking out the window thinking about this moment. Now it had arrived. I waited like I had done yesterday, the people outside waiting too, expecting. The lower wall went easily and soon I was into the hard climbing in the roof. I spun around looking at the crowd’s excited faces. The next moves were big but I climbed passed a clipping position. All of a sudden I was stuck, I couldn’t reverse and backtrack my mistake and yet I couldn’t go further. It was over I fell. Disappointed I lowered to the ground. I ended in 4^th.    

Bouldering

Do you prefer bouldering or routes? For me it’s routes. No doubt about it though they are more effort, more mentally tiring and more stressful. So I went to the dark side.

First I had a trip up to the Peak. I spent two evenings sneaked in after team training. For these I just climbed with my brother and we went around working out the problems the rocks threw at us. I climbed well with the feeling of the grit under my fingers like having sand on my skin from the beach. I worked the Terrace, a classic 7C. With clinical precision and absolute control like taking a penalty in the World Cup I climbed my way up it. I then took it easy and supported my brother as the sun dropped behind the hills. We both walked away feeling very happy with how it all went. From the rugged beauty of the Moor the next evening we went to the tranquil setting of Water-Cum-Jolly. The water was still like the muggy calm before the thunder roles in. With this storm came Tsunami 8A. It’s brutal, basic and brilliant. I was so close each time tickling the crescent shaped crimp! I came away as a gambler putting everything on red and it coming up black.

Next on the list was North Wales. The Pass was dank, drizzle washed over the car windscreen and fell to the floor with my hopes. One boulder was sure to by dry, well at least the bottom of it was; Jerry’s Roof. I had the ideal bouldering conditions wet, one boulder pad, no spotters, no beta things were looking splendid. Jerry’s Roof and Bus Stop weren’t too bad so I finished those quick. I decided to try Diesel Power. Not going to lie, I wasn’t very close to this. This didn’t stop me loving it though, I was stretched out on a roof trying hard to keep my feet on and eventually taking a swooping swing and landing with my bum on the mat. Doesn’t get much better! After Ed Gow-Smith and James Squire showed up so we climbed on the beautiful slopes of Snowdon. You know that nervous energy? That energy you get when you know everything is in place to climb something truly at your limit. Well that’s what I was swamped by when I stuck the shoulder shearing move on Stone Temple Pilots 8A.  The cave felt like being swallowed up into the mountain, it was dark but the chalk on the holds caught the smatterings of light and reflected it showing an interstellar path of holds out of Snowdon. I would never have done it though if it wasn’t for great beta and a bit of pressure to keep the ‘send train’ going as James topped it just before me. To end the day we headed to wavelength area and went right to the top. No noise reached us it was the perfect end with chilled out climbing at it's best.  

More limestone was calling. I visited Parisella’s Cave. It’s very steep. I set my pad up to climb Rock Atrocity 7C and found myself quickly coughing up the cloud of dust I landed in. I fought my way up just before my arms gave in. Another venue I visited was The Gop. This was a very short, very steep cave in the Welsh hills. One problem there stood out for me, Smoke a Bloke 7B+. The problem was one move long and what a move it was! Just pull on and jump for a pocket off two small crimps.

Next up was a quick attack of Peak limestone. I felt like I was in a rhythm now and hit crags like Blackwell Dale, Tideswell Dale and Raven Tor in the evenings. Tideswell was a special favourite situated in the most picturesque peak valley. You climbed off a meadow of grass on high clean limestone. I love the crimpy style and Pump up the Power 7C+ stood out for me as it’s such a classic.

I haven’t talked about closer to home. Hartland was the place where all my effort was focused and on one problem: Supercede 8A. Situated on a rocky beach, with the waves crashing like a natural rhythm to climb to, I’d say it’s one of the best places to have a project. I went down with the Mabons to try it. I spend about 4 sessions on it overall and that day everything was perfect. For me that was the hardest bloc I’ve ever climbed! Just next to it was Northern Exposure, a high, unrepeated problem which was given 7a+ but multiple strong climbers had failed to get the repeat. I tried it with a large crew and we had loads of pads. The atmosphere was chilled out and everyone was enjoying the evening. We pushed each other on to try to get the second ascent. The move that was stopping me was a desperate twist on a tiny edge in the crack. The first time I properly commited, I did the twist and slapped a sloper next to the crack. Now it was to the finishing jug, I latched it but felt my feet cutloose. In slow motion I twisted and my right hand ripped sending me into a sideways helicopter. My spotters divided out the way to avoid getting landed on. My side hit the pad and I watched my momentum take my face towards a rock, I stuck out my hand. Pain. My wrist felt like it had been bent back 180 degrees. I wasn’t able to climb for a month and that brought an end to my bouldering phase.     

https://vimeo.com/129292524 Bouldering from North Wales
https://vimeo.com/132603500 Bouldering in the Peak and Hartland

Projects

Over 10 days it took me. I probably spent about 40 goes on it. This route had no repeats. This route was Chimera. Since summer last year I’d been trying this monster link of Fisherman’s Tale, Postman Pat and Tuppence which goes at a top end 8b+. I would describe the route as an 8b consisting of a V7 and a V8 boulder followed by an 8a+.

We’ve all been there trying a route that is right at our limit and just being able to do each move on it. This was me at the start. For the people who push on they find a sharp improvement curve were the moves start to get easier. This wasn’t me, the moves were too hard and holds too small. I realised I’d have to do more than just try it, so I got training. Each session I would punish myself with a good 100 pull-ups before starting the session and hours working on finger strength. This was when I started improving. I went from falling off the 2^nd draw to falling on the 4^th draw to falling on the last draw. It felt amazing improving so much and I bet every climber finds getting better one of the best experiences. Am I wrong? There was one move which stumped me again and again, this one move was the hardest move I’ve ever come across on a route. This move didn’t just require all the strength I had but also a clinical accuracy to every movement through it. This move was as a real stopper. One day though, it was the 8^th of February, it all clicked. It was like a key fitting into a lock and I felt the move go like the unleashing of the lock mechanism.

Then the pressure came. I’m not sure if I’m the only person that feels this but it grows slowly and you start to think about succeeding. I try not to though. I try to force myself into a mind-set of calm where I can focus on the moves. For I have found success to only come from this mental state. I went for it, I climbed through the crux, and the first time I’d done it. Now it was on. I believed I could do it. Got to the final moves and thought it was going to be easy. I fell. I was heart-broken I knew I’d have to do it all again. I knew I could do it now there was no doubt so the only thing I could possibly do was focus on pulling as hard as I possibly could. I climbed Chimera. This is what really doing a route at your limit comes down to.

Projects, I’d say, are the things that provide me with some pure motivation. I feel that now as in the back of my mind I think about what I’ve got next. Supercede, 8A. It’s a childhood dream, I remember climbing with Mikey and Tom as they were trying to do the first ascent and thinking how that looked like the hardest moves out there. Also Poppy 8b+, the next route at Anstey’s, the next obsession.   

Winter Opens 2014

Over the last two weekends the final two national competitions of the year were held. The first was the first round of the British Cup at Awesome Walls in Sheffield and the second was the December Open bouldering competition held at the Unit in Derby.

This was the first British Cup ever held because before they were just stand alone competitions so all of a sudden this competition meant a lot more to me, because winning the cup would be a great achievement. I’ve had many competitions at Awesome walls, so I don’t really need to describe it but something that was different this time was; the amount of training I had done prior to the competition. I’d been advised to take the remainder of the year off so I hadn’t done any hard work for a good month before. My first two qualifiers were surprisingly steady and I managed to top them both out. I was safely through to the final. The final was on the overhanging wall with a little roof at the bottom. While route-reading I thought I could do this as all the moves seemed very straight forward. Isolation I always find stressful and end up sitting quietly focussing on my performance. My heart beats faster when I get called out and suddenly you are in front of a large crowd being expected to climb as well as you can. However this is probably the part I enjoy most about competitions that nervous excitement. I pull on to the route, the holds are red and I enjoy it as the moves linked together really well. I turn the lip and have a really disgusting match but then I’m off again. I start to feel lactic acid build up in my arms as they start struggling to hold on in a relaxed position, however I’m almost at the top and I cross to a sloper and find I can’t even hold it! I tried getting a better grip but nothing came finally I just gave everything I had a slipped out of the hold.

I found out I was in first with only Jim about to climb. He climbed really well and managed to go again to the hold I fell going to. In the end I finished in 2^nd place after Jim which I was really pleased with because it kept me in the running for the cup. Also I did well enough to get reselected for the GB team for 2015

The following weekend was the Boulder open in Derby. I’d visited this wall a couple of weeks ago for a quick look about so I knew it quite well. This competition we only had three tries on each problem which was really annoying because it meant it was less like a real European competition, also it put more pressure on each try. We are given 8 boulders to complete. We had 4 slabby ones and 4 powerful ones so it was a good range of technics required. Our time started and I got my confidence up by flashing the first one which was really easy. Next I tried a vertical one and I fell on the last move! This knocked me and I knew I had to keep my head in a good place if I was to have a chance of making final. Next I flashed two more and did the one I fell on which was a relief. Sometimes I get lucky with my height and find a short person problem which happened on the next one. I was able to get my feet really high therefore allowing me to get it on my third attempt. The next two problems where on the competition wall. The first was a massive roof which I flashed and it was the coolest problem with loads of squeezing with the limbs. Next was a wall with a stopper last move. This killed me and I knew if I could get this I’d have a good chance of finals, however the last hold was awful and I kept not quite holding it. This left the last slab, I knew I had to do this to make finals. For once I had to really pull it out of the bag. First and second go I fell. Left was my third I felt the pressure. I gave it absolutely everything I’d got but couldn’t quite get the push to reach the top. I fell and was gutted for the first time I hadn’t made a boulder final.

Once the results came out I found out I was in 10^th position, I wasn’t happy with this and I really want to improve it. Sitting out of the finals I saw the problems and thought that the final would have suited me. Although I did really enjoy both competition and it has made me psyched for the up and coming competition season so let’s see how it goes!!

British Lead Climbing Championships 2014

This year the British Lead Championships were held at the new wall in Sheffield, Awesome Walls Sheffield, which is a new BMC performance centre so one of the best walls to compete on a european style stage. The junior competition was held on the Saturday and there was a big turn out with about 20 in my category. The setting was done by Jan Genoux and gave some great routes. I was quite nervous because this was my first national lead competition this year. Normally I made finals with comfort but I wasn’t so sure this time! The first route had a hard top section but I felt really good on this and topped out. I felt really relieved. Next was a long steep route up the lip of the massive roof and I fell on the last move of this because of a poor foot placement which was really annoying! Anyway, only Will and Jim topped out and I qualified in 3^rd joint with Alex, no surprise there! I was more chilled now but I realised that this was the competition for British Champion, the big title, and the competitiveness kicked in. I came second last year. Could I do one better?

Our final route was through the centre of the roof with hard moves all the way through it. I climbed fast and it all went really well; I made no mistakes but fell on the top wall going for a small crimp that I just couldn’t grab! I came down, feeling like I had done my best, and was please to find I had the high point at the moment. Alex fell one move before me, although I thought he looked more solid than me. Jim then came out and destroyed the route with an incredible top out! Now Will had to match it, but do it faster. Will looked strong to the last move but then dropped with the finishing jug in his hands. So close! I finished in 3^rd place which I was pleased with because I couldn’t have done much better, but it still wasn’t a win.

The next day was the seniors. It was a massive jump in depth of the field, almost everyone was capable of making finals and only 8 spaces were available. We had two qualifiers as normal but both were significantly harder than youth routes. Both our route were about 8a+ which was right on the edge of my ability. I thought I had the fitness to make finals but it was just a question of how hard the routes were. The first was up the steep wall but not through the roof. I felt really confident when I climbed and enjoyed the experience. I managed to get a rest right at the end which completely saved me because I could rest before the final sequence. I felt fresh unfortunately there was an enormous move and I fell. This was good because only two people topped and I was in joint third! The next route was disgusting, like, really vertical with no positive holds and big stretched out moves, hell for me. I tried really hard and got to the crux but my lack of technique on weird moves showed itself again and I couldn’t really manage to do anything so I fell off. It wasn’t the worst effort and left me in a middle emotion of wondering if I had done well enough. After a nervous wait for about two hours I saw the results and was over the moon to have made it. Only just though; Ellis needed one move to kick me out.

5 Youth A boys made the final out of 8, which shows how competitive my category is and I’m psyched to be able to climb against all of them. The other three were men who were super strong but weren’t specialised lead competition climbers. Our final route looked amazing, unsurprisingly it went through the roof on big fat pinches with a dyno in the middle to get the crowd going. I was up first because I qualified in last position and climbed really fast and efficiently to the rest before the roof. At this point I had to clip from a set position which was really far away. I thought I wouldn’t be able to reach and was considering just dropping off but after three attempts managed to get it in. I did a little crowd raiser to get psyched and unleashed for the dyno, stuck it, yes! Next I missed a crucial kneebar which was a mistake and then my heel popped on a crucial move and I came down disappointed with my performance. I wasn’t surprised when everyone else got significantly further than me but still you get routes that just don’t go your way.

I really enjoyed the added pressure of the aura around the championships and the respect you get from winning it, however I was pleased with how I did and won of my goals is to become British Champion so next year I might make it one of my priorities to do well in. 

2014

Looking back I can't quite believe how far I have come in 2014. I feel like I put in some seriously hard work and it all paid off which was one of the most rewarding outcomes of the year. I've loved my training all year and have regularly been down to the Quay doing laps on brilliant routes and at the Rock and Rapid Adventure Centre pulling down hard on their training board with good mates.



Fisherman's Tale my Anstey's Project

I'll start with my bouldering. It has been a year of highs and lows with the highest high being some of my outdoor ascents like Ben's Roof 7C+, Brad Pitt 7C, Corridors of Power 7C although these where all dwarfed by The End is Nigh 8A. In a competition front I haven't climb as well and found that I've really struggled to compete in the new category of youth A.



The End is Nigh

My lead outdoors I think has been the highlight of the year and I'll never forget when I climbed my first 8b+ Kale Borroka at Suirana. I think this is the best route I've ever climbed and the best I have ever climbed. It was just one of those moments where I was totally in the zone feeling immersed in the movement and executing it perfectly. These moments are rare and I regret now not taking an hour to just appreciate it. I climbed many more 8b's and 8b+'s that year and it all culminated in Slow Food which is the hardest route I've ever done, I think that was my physical peak of the year. The question of 8c was constantly on my mind. It was the next big grade and I feel like it is the step up into the big league. I tried Dure Limites once and found it suited me but it got wet so I hope to return this year to Ceuse to finish it. I had a goal to onsight 8a too which came to fruit when I succeeded on Font Picant and I'd never had to fight so much! When the wall was about to become less steep and more feature I just remember thinking, 'This is it, give it everything!'


Nothing beats the Archtempter!!

My competition lead was a hard year as I moved in Youth A and, at Imst, was shocked at how much harder it had all got! The main event was New Caledonia which was the most memorable trip of the year. I wasn't happy with my performance but then again I didn't have a nightmare and I finished in 19th place. One of the best moments was making the senior men's final at the BLCCs which has opened some doors for me.



Corridors of Power

I've also done a smattering of trad and have managed E4 on lead which was a terrifying experience and also I did the Archtempter E3 which was my first proper experience of choss climbing. I have also been lucky this year to be sponsored by Dewerstone clothing and I have enjoyed supporting a local Devon company!

L'argentiere

Recently I have had some time off and have had a holiday to Nice over Christmas. This has been a really chilled out affair and I've had fun just climbing and discovering new places. This is something I've missed over the last couple years, I've been stuck in a performance tunnel, as Steve McClure puts it, but I still don't think that is a bad thing and I'm even more excited to through myself into it next year.

I end briefly with hopes for 2015; most importantly I want to remain injury free and keep enjoying my climbing. I'd like to do better in the competitions and also I might be able to go to a senior World Cup so the competition side is looking good! Outdoors I want to climb 8c that's basically it. I want to discover new places and generally follow my passion wherever it takes me, so lets hope 2015 is a good one!

Thanks to My sponsors
Dewerstone
North Devon Sports Foundation

Flash Over 8b+

World Championships

World Championships

Just after starting Sixth Form I had to travel across the World to New Caledonia, which was a 9 hour flight south east of Japan so yeah we had quite a lot of travelling time, about 30 hours in fact and we arrived tired, to find that our bags had been left in Helsinki, this left the rather unpleasant experience of wearing the same boxers for four days although I did turn them around!

New Caledonia is probably the most tropical place I have ever been by that I mean there where palm trees, amazing beaches and poisonous animals. I did get a scare when I almost stepped on the third most venomous snake in the world fortunately it was fairly dopey and we decided it would be a good idea to poke it with sticks!  The town we stayed in was called Noumea and it was the capital of New Caledonia.  It was all very rasta out there with lots of locals having dreads and walking around with speakers playing loud music, I even heard someone playing Shaggy at a ridiculous volume out there car. I had to join in with this chilled out lifestyle so decided to by myself a Hawaiian shirt 2500 francs or 25 quid well spent!

On one of the rest days we went to duck island which didn’t have many ducks on it but instead had some cool snorkelling with colourful fish although we were told we would see turtles so we went exploring around the island, we got told we weren’t meant to snorkel there so left but Alex stayed, soon he was back saying he had seen turtles. We went back to the same spot and found them! The turtles sort of reminded me of the people all laid back like the turtle from Finding Nemo.

Well we weren’t out there for a holiday so soon our minds turned to the competition; the wall was incredible maybe the coolest looking wall I’ve ever climbed on! The opening ceremony was intimidating seeing all the different countries with big teams and us just with 7!

So my first qualifier was through the vert then a massive roof then some simple pulling to the top, looked fun! The sequence through the roof was a couple spins and looked really confusing. On the bottom section I managed to keep it together and made the roof, so basically I went completely wrong handed and ended up doing a swap, so much for beta, and pumped out a couple moves later but still I was in the top 26 so it was good enough.

My second qualifier had a really hard start and many of the juniors hadn’t got past clip 5, I got here and was half way through the move when my foot popped! I thought I’d blown it, honestly I couldn’t believe it and I thought I hadn’t made semi-finals. I thought it was over and I’d let the team down, though thankfully I make it in 23^rd place phew stressful!

After a chilled out evening and lazy morning we headed to isolation which is always intimidating because it is so busy, however the atmosphere is amazing so I got psyched! My route was on a similar section to my first qualifier so I thought I could do well. Once again it looked like a really hard route sequence and it had a massive move in it. I returned and got myself ready for my most important route of the year. I came out completely focused and ready to give it my best effort. I climbed the bottom wall easily and made the first couple moves in the roof which were quite hard but I wasn’t that pumped when I hit a jug in the roof. Next was the big move, I eyed up the next hold and let fly but didn’t stick it and dropped. I’d climbed really well so was happy but still knew I could have done better which is annoying.

Will made finals so the next day he was up and we knew he could do well and where so psyched for him but unfortunately he met a stopper move which he didn’t get on with and he finished in 8^th. The trip was amazing and totally worth it. I’d just like to say thanks to everyone who helped me get there and the support I had when I was out there, I couldn’t have done it without you!

 

Sponsors: Dewerstone

North Devon Sports Foundation

Sports Aid

Langenfeld European Bouldering Cup

The second bouldering cup was held in Langenfeld, this was my final bouldering competition of the year so I wanted to make it my best one.

From St Leger I travelled back into England and got dropped of by my family at Stansted Airport, from here we flew to Munich and after a rather eventful car ride featuring a flat tire we arrived at our hotel at 3 in the morning!

We recovered and the competition was soon on us! I was climbing at about 11 o'clock and I did a really good warm-up with Tim involving lots of looking like an idiot but when I pulled on the wall it was worth it because I felt like I was moving well and felt like I could pull out some hard moves.

The clock ticked down to our start time and I checked out our problems, it was weird how they did the comp they made variations of the problems but essentially the same base moves for example we had a similar problem to the youth b girls but they had taken of three holds.

Right the clock struck 0 and it was time to climb, I watched Will flash the first problem so the pressure was on me to match his effort, I went for it but had to squeeze so hard to stay on and dropped it early. Another effort and I dropped the next move then someone came along and just went with the other hand and made it look easy, this did turn out to be loads easier so then I dropped 2 moves higher because of a silly slip! Fouth go and I stuck the second to last hold but then my foot slipped and I fell! Ah fifth and final go, I really had to compose myself for this and executed it perfectly it felt great!

After that I did the easiest problem, which was a proper dyno so I was surprised I could do it! Next was the youth B girls problem made harder, on my first three goes I dropped this hard press move to a pocket but then sorted myself out and managed to do a cheeky crimp in a bolt hole which isn't technically allowed but oh well and finished of the problem!

Next I tried the slab which was a youth B boys final but couldn't touch the way everyone did it, it just didn't seem possible for me so I left it, next was another dyno this one was a quick match and slap to a good hold which purely revolved around speed. I slipped on my first go and on my second stuck the move it was sick I have to say such a good problem, so after that all the problems where desperate but I tried different beta on the slab but unfortunately ran out of time for another go!

This competition was really well organised, great music, all explicit, good lighting and a great place so I really enjoyed it and I might venture to say that bouldering comps are pretty fun, and with a decent result of 25th I was pretty pleased with my trip.

Next was the finals and it was amazing watching Will crush to a silver position so close to gold, Tara finish 4th so close to 3rd! Also Max made a good effort and came 5th! Well done to all the team and thanks to the management!

Thanks to my Sponsors:
 Sports Aid
 North Devon Sports Foundation
Dewerstone

Hope, heat and heartbreaks

High on Black Mamba 8a



After sacking off Ceuse, we headed from the mountains and into the heat of the Provence region. Grape vines covered the slopes below Mt Ventoux in these was St Leger which I would say beats Ceuse but just for me because it has loads of good 8b's and 8b+'s which is just what I like. The style is pure fitness, you wouldn't fall off because the moves are too hard which I'd never really experienced. First, I finished off an 8b+ I tried last time and was please to find I had got so much stronger since last time and showed I could do 8b+ second go. This gave me help because I knew I could climb harder than that. I also tried and 8b called Praniania which felt really easy.

We spent most of our time at sector La Baleine which is a smaller looking version of Rodellar. It had two classic 8b+'s and two 8c's so plenty to go for, I started with flashing an 8a on the left hand side of the cave and it felt easy. I was feeling so good! Next I put the draws in Collection Automne Hiver 8b+ which was an epic. I took 5 10m whips when I was trying to put the draws in! I came down and had to call it a day because it took so much out of me. After a rest day we returned and I had three goes and dropped turning the lip of the cave twice, but found new beta at the end of the day. After more rest I tried again and managed to send it with the new beta. Me and Luke reckoned 8a+ to a rest then a roof which gave a hard 8b followed by a hands of rest then a technical 7c to the top. All in all I thought it was hard 8b+.


8a+ at Venasque

We also climbed at Venasque, which has some amazing rock with really cool features and some incredible secret walls. I managed to onsight my second 8a but it was a really soft one so I only felt like I had done a standard 7c+, and I have felt more psyched after 7b+ onsights. I just think I get most satisfaction from either cruising something or having a fight because with cruising I am psyched because I know I climbed really well and the fight just involves the most physical investment so you get great rewards. But I'm not sure which I prefer. I also tried an 8a+ which was ridiculously hard! Unfortunately I'd run out of juice after one go on this.


7c+ at Venasque

More rest and we returned to La Baleine, we'd left the draws in the climb so I just warmed up and went for an attempt on Collection Automne Hiver, I climbed to the rest really efficiently barely getting pumped, I left the rest and kept going the new beta worked but I still had to really keep it together while I felt like my arms would fail at any moment. Right onto the slab, I'd done the physical part now was time for the mental part. I'd never actually linked the 7c so I was nervous as I stood there recovering. I set off feeling calm and light, every move I executed perfectly but still it felt hard after climbing that much a 7c was a real challenge.

Heartbreaks, I think I'd describe them in a climbing sense as when you put all your energy into one attempt give it absolutely everything and realise that you just aren't good enough and no matter how hard you try you won't succeed. I tried this 8b+ called Jungle Speed, it was hard I would say it was 8a into another 8a with only a few shake outs with the crux right at the top. It was one of the best route I'd ever tried completely beautiful flowing movement, I had two days left and I wanted to do it so badly. I climbed fast, fluent and still found the going hard. On my first go I was going for the last hold with hard moves around it, but I wasn't close. Next go I fell earlier. This was at the top of a 35m route and every time I knew I had to climb back up to that point. On the same day Luke fell 3 times at the top of Collection Automne Hiver even after doing the crux move on the 7c he pumped out and dropped it!


Luke doing Coloscope 8a

The last day it was my last chance and I'd never wanted it so bad, I climbed the best I ever had never faltering or hesitating but still I got to the crux and fell a move lower from a stupid mistake, I knew I hadn't enough energy left, I wasn't frustrated just broken that I didn't have it in me to complete those moves. A true heartbreaker.
Thanks to My Sponsors: Dewerstone
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North Devon Sports Foundation

The massive cave!

L'argentiere European bouldering cup

Topping my first problem

The first bouldering cup was held just a couple hours from Ceuse in a small town called L'argentiere. We travelled down to the town near, Briancon to try to watch the world cup. Unfortunately there was a storm and the water started to drip through the walls, with the setters desperately trying to dry it out. It was eventually cancelled when a lightning bolt struck the courtyard and struck a tree sending two people to hospital. Seeing this close up was one of the most scary experiences I've ever been in.

We took a rest day which involve playing lots of darts and watching films. We also checked out the wall, to me it looked really good lots of overhanging panels which look like they'll yield some powerful problems.

Competition day arrived and I hoped I could put in a good performance, because I was really struggling to compete in youth A everything was just harder, moves bigger, holds smaller. I saw our problems and sure enough we did have lots of powerful ones. I started on a yellow problem, it was made for me just small holds and gymnastic moves. I flashed it and missed the bonus on it! Oops. Next was a green problem which was just a massive swing move and was really easy. My third top was a slippy white problem, and I pulled on and my foot popped straight off. I was so annoyed, I looked at my foot thinking how could a possibly do that! Fortunately I got another go straight away and sent it. The rest of the problems where completely desperate and I was working to try to get bonuses which was really demoralising. After the competition I finished with three tops and three bonuses which ended me in 32nd place. So frustrating!

Will getting stuck into the desperate blue

Ed going for the green dyno

Super slippy on the white

Although I soon forgot about my bad result because Hamish had crushed and made final. We watched him and he managed to pull it out of the bag in the final with two tops this place him in third!

It was a really good competition because it was chilled out with nice weather but it was a shame I couldn't match it with a good performance. Still I had a great time!

Thanks to my sponsors:
Dewerstone
Sports Aid
North Devon Sports Foundation

flying!!!