A blog about Devon Lad who loves climbing. I train really hard and am a member of the GB junior climbing team.
Saturday, 16 February 2013
A couple of weeks ago I went to Bonehill with the intention of trying The Wave Traverse which is graded V9. I quickly did all the moves and managed to link some of the sections together and I soon started trying it from the start. To begin with I kept falling of the third move where you had to match a crimp and stab into a sloppy slot this move kept spitting me of but eventually I managed to get the right body position for it. After a couple more goes I made it to the middle section which consisted of little bump moves on crimps. This was quite easy. Then you had a twist move to a sloper and a hard unravel to a crimpy pocket. One more hard cross through and you were onto the easy V3 to finish. After falling on the end section a couple times I was quite tired so I took a rest. With my fingers almost worn through I pulled onto the problem. It climbed easily through the beginning and middle but by the V3 I was totally boxed. I got the jug and locked it out but couldn't reach the final sloper so I slapped and fell. I was gutted. I tried again and again getting more frustrated as I couldn't do the first move again and again. I went home defeated.
The Wave V6
After waiting two weeks to go back there I finally got the chance and grabbed it with both hands. I demonstrated the routes at the BMC YCS round in the morning which was great fun especially as I didn't have to compete! I got to know the moves again and quickly I was seated at the start. I just flew up it. I found it really easy and was annoyed at myself for not doing it the first time. After this was the next step up Tsunami V10 which started in the same place but finished up the Wave V6. I didn't find this as hard and I did it second go from the start. I still had loads of skin left so I decided to try Arkem V8 this was a hard straight up problem with a horrid crimp and a couple crap slopers. I tried this briefly last time I was there and couldn't pull of the ground! This time was different. I worked out the moves quickly the hardest of which was sticking the horrid crimp and moving my feet and then slapping into the slopey pocket. In about half an hour I had it wired and I got to the last bad hold twice but didn't have enough power to make the last move. I took a rest to give my dad some support on Rippled Wall. I went back determined to do it. I stuck the first bit slap move and crushed the crimp. The final sloper was just as bad as it always was but I stuck in there and grovelled my way to the top. Sent! I love the feeling of satisfaction after a good day and I felt it that day. Next I am going to El Chorro which I am totally psyched for!
Thanks to my sponsor Rock and Rapid Adventures
also cheers Lyon outdoor for the shoes.