A blog about Devon Lad who loves climbing. I train really hard and am a member of the GB junior climbing team.
Saturday, 29 June 2013
Dropping the double dyno
Tuppence is at Ansteys cove and has always seemed like totally out of reach for me, I'd seen loads of really strong people try it, even my brother couldn't do it. It was like a classic of the crag and one of the best 8Bs in the country. Although it is graded 8a+ it is widely regarded as 8b and I agree with 8b because it feels harder than the other 8bs I've done.
The first time I tried it was at the end of the day after I'd done lots of climbing but I still managed to do all the moves on it apart from the third which was a dead point of a finger jam which hurt loads. After that was the hardest move on the route, you had to dyno of two crimps get a sloper and as you fell of grab a jug next to it. It was like really precise. Then you got a rest, now came what was thought of as the crux but I found it quite easy, you got set up on a gaston and a crimp then got a massive drop-knee ,the famous one, to reach a crimp, now most people can keep there feet low but I had to get my feet really high and slap for the next jug. After this was the top section with a load of powerful slaps of undercuts, until you got a sloper and had to stab for a triangle jug then it was over.
At half term I went down with my mum for a morning trying it. I made progress everytime which was really good and kept the psyched going. After making good links on it I decided to start trying ground-up, the real test of mental strength was about it start. From the ground I spent the whole time falling of the 6th move, the double dyno. After loads of time getting to this move then falling, one session I fell of that move every time. On my fourth session on the route I stuck the double dyno and was crushed the rest of the route, got to the stab to the triangle jug and completely missed it, I wasn't that happy.
So today I went there but my chances weren't looking good because it was so hot, after like 6 goes I had fallen every time on the double dyno. I wasn't expecting to do it put it cooled of a bit and I got the feet and hands just right and still only just stuck it. I rested and got into the drop-knee, the next move felt really easy and I was just able to keep pulling to the top. I took extra care on the last move to not drop it. I got the easy slab at the end and clipped the chains! I was so happy and it was great to work something that long and finally do it. The feeling was great and I can't wait to find another project to try!
Sponsored by Rock and Rapid Adventures.