Saturday, 10 August 2013

Leeds Competitions

A week after my disappointment at Imst, I had yet another competition, the BMC bouldering Championships and the BMC youth open at Leeds. In the national this year I had never one, I'd come close with a second because I was slower but never first, that is what I really wanted to get.
The Saturday was the bouldering competition and I wasn't sure if I would even make the podium because everyone else was looking so strong.

After Qualification I was in third position, with seven tops. The problems had been cool and I had done well. So final time. Isolation took about 2 hours and I was really psyched by the time I got to climb, my first problem looked pretty straight forward just hard pulling. I did just that and flashed it, next up was a steep roof problem, my favourite! I was just pulling again and I got the next flash. At this point I was in first place, I started to believe I could win. The last problem was just a crimp test on tiny pinches, I found it desperate. I could barely hold them let alone do the massive high step I needed to do the problem. My time ran out. I had two tops now I had to watch Will to see if he topped it. In true style he cruised it to take first place. I wasn't that upset though because I really didn't expect to do that well and overall I finished second having lost to Will every time and Ed came third.

Now it was time for the lead, my preference so the pressure was on to do well. I would never live it down if I lost to a boulderer. The first qualifier was about 7b+ and had a pumpy section in the middle but I cranked through that and topped the route. Nice both Jim and Will flashed that too, the second qualifier looked really easy but then they changed it to the vertical wall one youth A boys had. I was thrilled, I need as much practice on vertical climbs as I can get. The first wall was ok and I did the roof easily where lots of people fell. There was a corner and I bridge out to take a rest, I heard Simon Tilley shout to me that it was out but I continued to top the route, just! On the ground I was told that I had been disqualified from where I had bridged so I didn't get the top! I could have appealed and won because nobody had told me the corner was out but I was still in the final so it didn't really matter.

I was third in qualifying so now it was time for the final, we had a really good looking pink route with tufas to start and a dyno finish. Maybe I might could win this competition but Will and Jim were so strong. I got beta from the Youth A boys who had already climbed the route so I knew what I was in for. Finally it was my turn and I walked out trying to relax even with the crowd. I was ready though and I had a quick route read, a deep breath and set off. I was feeling so strong climbing really well and already I had done the first steep section and was at a good rest before the final bulge. I did a couple moves and realised I was wrong handed! Idiot! I had to then climb back and get it the right way, that tired me out and a mistake was just what I didn't want. I did the next move and put my foot up, two moves left, the two hardest moves. I slapped and stuck the crimp out right got my feet in a good place and jumped for the finishing jug! I stuck it, almost surprised I clipped the chains. The first final route I'd topped but I was fairly sure Will and Jim would top to. I sat down and watched nervously. I watched Will as he looked so solid crushing it all. But he was looking tired and at the last move he was chicken winging like crazy, he jumped but was too tired and fell! I was shocked, and once again I thought I could win this. Just Jim to climb, he was looking strong as well. He got to the second to last move but it was too big for him and he fell. I couldn't really believe, I'd won. I had some luck for once. This was great and has given me a confidence for Canada, maybe I'll keep going and make final there which would be a dream come true. Well I can always hope.
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