Saturday, 10 August 2013


Jack the Ripper
So after Frankejura we went to the Zillertal in Austria, it was a massive change from the rolling wooded countryside of Germany, with huge mountains and massive cliffs. The first crag we visited was Ewige Jagrunde high up the valley, it was two huge boulders with loads of vertical sport climbing! Another change, steep limestone to vertical granite. We knew it was going to be hard, it was. We tried a 6c to start and we both fell of the start oh dear. We then did a load of 7s which were all fun and not too hard, I got a 7c flash which was hideously crimpy and technical. I was then feeling pretty good so I tried Jack the Ripper 8a, I was psyched when I could do the crux slab moves with the thumb holds. I then did it third go to tick my first 8a slab! Sick.

Next day we went to Monkey Island a crag which looked really cool in all the pictures I've seen of it. Unfortunately it disappointed, the style was weird, really powerful laybacking and we didn't like it that much, I tried Space 8a but it was desperate, with a hard as dyno right at the top when you were so pumped. We did manage a 7c+ called Sex Magic and then we gave up for the day.
Especially for You 7c

Electric Avenue
For a rest day we climbed this huge mountain with snow on! In the middle of summer so I had to take the opportunity to through as many snow balls and sledge now the path on my bum! Don't think my mum was that happy as I almost took her out on the way past. So for the last day in Zillertal we climbed at Ewige to warm up and then moved to Bachexe. This was the a massive roof with the classic Electric Avenue 8a. To start it had two big dynos then a rest then was the crux a really cool boulder problem traverse along bad slopers. I liked it because it was a really cool line and you don't normally get slopey traverses on routes so it was a bit different. It went third go and was one of the best routes I'd done all trip. For the last couple hours we went to Los Lochos and tried Still waters run deep another 8a! It just a super power boulder problem to start and once we did that it was over so we did it quickly. To finish I climb hole in one 7c and was done. Like I couldn't pull anymore.
Sponsors: Rock and Rapid Adventures
Troll Outdoor

For the last day we climbed for a bit then gave up and went bouldering which was really fun, as a change for route climbing. I'm not converting though. It was chilled and I sent some good problems, I definitely want to go back to climb more there but first want to get a bit stronger to do some of the harder stuff. Hopefully it will happen soon.

1 comment:

  1. Wow looks like you got some really hard climbing done.